Luis de Javier Spring-Summer 2025: Spanish Designer Makes Paris Debut with Tour de Force Collection 

By Jesse Scott

Born in Barcelona, and having won over New York and LA in a whirlwind four years for his eponymous brand, Luis de Javier continued to the biggest stage in his fashion to present his Spring-Summer 2025 collection. Under the bright lights of Paris Fashion Week, de Javier swung for the fences and resoundingly succeeded, launching a tour de force collection that was brash, unapologetically sexual, and possessed of a fiery passion rampaging towards a precipice of violence. 

The day before the show, de Javier posted on Instagram: “PARIS WE ARE GIVING BIRTH IN 24 HOURS.” If this was a birth, it was the birth of a Greek Titan. Consider de Javier as Gaia and the collection as Kronos, exploding onto the fashion scene on a singular mission to leave a scorched earth trail of all who oppose it. At a flashpoint dominated by quiet luxury, and in which many designers have emphasized a certain decorum both in their philosophies and their aesthetics, this de Javier show is a disruptor poised to dethrone “demure.”  

A larger-than-life personality dedicated to living and designing on his own terms, de Javier used the runway as a canvas for uninhibited self-expression. The collection seemed to have been created by a mad artist in the frenetic throes of aesthetic rapture, alluding to titans like Christian Dior, Madame Grès, Yves Saint Laurent, Cristobal Balenciaga, and Alexander McQueen with broad impassioned brushstrokes.

The Balenciaga reference was the most pronounced, and intentional; de Javier feels a deep connection to the designer due to their shared Spanish heritage. The Matador aesthetic was omnipresent. One jacket had rosettes hand-embroidered in Seville.  A bull figuratively appeared in the ingenious shape of an elegant lace corset (Look 26). Most significantly, horn dresses, a de Javier signature which gained international infamy when worn by Julia Fox at New York Fashion Week three seasons ago, stole the show with their distinctly Spanish and gleefully dramatic silhouettes (Look 24).

Suggestive in a peculiarly surrealist sense (Dali, himself a Spaniard, would doubtless have approved) they combined different historic and sartorial flashpoints in a way the world needs right now. “By blending these influences, I’ve created a collection that not only respects the grandeur of my inspirations but also embraces the evolution of my own creative identity,” de Javier explained. 

It was de Javier’s McQueen moment that perhaps impressed me the most. During a season which saw Sean McGirr revive the iconic bumster by subtly incorporating a sheer mesh panel into the waistline of trousers, De Javier made the silhouette sexier than ever before in the initial three looks of his collection. Never mind a suggestive strip of sheer fabric: De Javier simply cropped shorts, a transparent lace white skirt, and baggy black trousers well below the waist, an exaggerated thong suspended from the models’ hips like a harness. Whereas the bumster is playful, de Javier went full femme fatale. 

Particularly striking was (Look 3), a spectacular synthesis of aesthetics that included lingerie-style garters, a cropped Matador jacket with regal military-style epaulets, and the aforementioned thong with black shorts. This was one of just many examples of lingerie seamlessly and irreverently being interspersed in the collection.  It appeared on a model in a voluminous near-angelic coat (Look 9), beneath a white lace turtleneck so dramatically draped it seemed bridal (Look 11), and even with a red carpet-ready interpretation of a ball gown (Look 30).

Perhaps the most surprising part of the collection was how de Javier re-interpreted Nike hats into dramatic Matador silhouettes. A continuation of the trend of global sportswear brands teaming up with avant-garde high fashion labels (this season alone saw Adidas and Reebok execute high-profile collaborations with Avavav and Ujoh respectively), the de Javier-Nike tandem felt particularly bold. It was a home run. Look no further than a matador-style Nike hat worn with a ferocious black fur coat, black gloves, and the iconic garters (Look 8). 

The ensemble had an intoxicating Kate Moss-gone-Berlin sensibility, only appropriate since the collection carried a savage 90s sex appeal that would fit perfectly with one this era’s iconic shows. The black coat itself recalled the daring green number from Yves Saint Laurent’s scandal collection which was also worn with no pants, and, like de Javier’s Spring-Summer 2025 offering, was a statement to the fashion world.

De Javier has no shortage of industry veterans and inspiring creatives in his corner. Ricardo Tisci has famously mentored him over the past few years, and this season saw a collaboration with Betta Garcia.  But make no mistake: this brand is uniquely de Javier’s own, and with his swaggering no-holds-barred attitude to design, it will go as far as he is willing to take it. Notice has been served. Luis de Javier can excel on fashion’s biggest stage, and, like a raging bull released into the ring, he’s only getting started.