Runway

Luisa Beccaria Leads Guests Into The Light For FW25

February 28, 2025

Vintage-Inspired Elegance Meets Modern Sophistication For Luisa Beccaria FW25; A Dreamy Polka-Dot Collection​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

The Luisa Beccaria woman of FW25-2026 is a symbol of timeless sophistication and femininity - "a contemporary diva who winks at the 1950's." Held at Milan's prestigious Casa Cipriani, the show presented an ethereal vision of elegance, enveloping an exclusive guest list in a seductive universe of warm tweeds, cloudy mohair, and delicate lace. Beccaria presented one of the most expansive yet cohesive collections of this season, hitting an apparent crescendo mid-show with an enchantingly intricate bridal dress (Look 29) then following it up with a series of even more glamorous looks.

Look 29 (Photos: Courtesy of Luisa Beccaria)

Polka-Dots Prominent amidst Sea of Taffeta and Tulle

Beccaria's latest offering showcased her unique ability to combine romantic nostalgia with contemporary silhouettes and retro chic (Looks 22, 26, 31). Polka-dots dominated, emerging as the vanguard of a new trend that appears to be taking over Milan this season. From an oversized draped sheath to a casual yet oh-so-graceful burgundy dress to a series of cozy chic knitwear, these patterns captured the spotlight with their particular retro charm. Encapsulating the spirit of 1950s glamour for the modern Milanese sophisticate, polka dots synthesized conservative silhouettes with flirtatious patterns and balanced soft ivory with rich shades of midnight blue and dark garnet.

Ruffles and pleats were used effectively throughout the collection, adding an old-world glamour and an almost-Victorian charm to a collection that whispered luxury rather than screaming it. All felt true to Beccaria's original DNA yet simultaneously cognizant of the current moment. This season's Beccaria image was presented to the press as defining a "new positivity," tailored to the contemporary woman through business-like blazers and sharp A-lines contrasted by ephemeral skirts and shimmering organza dresses.

Hats Highlight Accessories Luisa Beccaria FW25

As the show neared its conclusion, it was the headwear that took center stage. Reminiscent of the Tatar style, a tall structured Bordeaux hat anchored a sleek velvet shirt and dress paired with a long herringbone overcoat (Look 35). Shortly after, a midnight blue hat of the same style added a delightfully imposing flair to a belted blue velvet A-Line with floral details on the shoulders (Look 46). Finally, a black hat transformed an ethereal black dress, transparent on the shoulders and covered in a vivid floral pattern, into a darkly romantic fantasy (Look 47).

Black bows tied back many of the models' hair, encapsulating Beccaria's signature femininity and tying a series of diverse looks together. Modest wide-set collars accomplished the same effect, appearing particularly delicate and feminine on intricate lace dresses with Victorian sensibility (Looks 36 and 14). An aristocratic lace ruffle adorning a red knit sweater stood out as one of the collection's more dramatic and memorable pieces.

As a guest list that included Alessandra Pirola Baietta, Judith Bradl, and Costanza Caracciolo filed out of Casa Cipriani into the bright Milan morning, they were left with an uplifting vision of complex yet airy femininity. An icon of Milanese fashion, Beccaria continues to delight season after season with creative new designs that channel the same beloved ethos.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​