In a grand Parisian setting, Lutz Huelle's Spring-Summer 2025 collection unfolded as a poetic dialogue between masculine and feminine archetypes. The designer's vision for the season was a masterful deconstruction and reimagining of classic wardrobe staples, blurring the lines between formal and casual, masculine and feminine.
The collection's foundation was built on ingenious transformations at the show’s opening. Men's suit jackets were dissected at the waist, with the bottom halves repurposed as skirts, creating a two-piece suit from a single garment. This play on proportion and expectation set the tone for a series of creative reinterpretations.
Oversized dress shirts in crisp cotton poplin were restructured, tightening the lower sections while maintaining volume in the bust and shoulders, resulting in slim, elongated silhouettes. The designer amplified this effect by pairing tailored wool or denim shorts with fluid viscose bases, lowering the waist without exposing the midriff for a relaxed, slouchy attitude.
The collection showcased versatility through innovative transformations of classic pieces. Wool or denim tailored shorts were set on fluid viscose bases, lowering the waist without exposing the midriff, for a relaxed, slouchy attitude. These pieces formed the foundation of the collection, paired with various tops including safari jackets, slinky tops, shirts, and even floor-length evening dresses. Suits and shirts attached to elastic jersey tubes exposed shoulders, transforming these typically formal garments into sensual summer versions.
Lace emerged as a recurring motif, attached to blazer waists, elongated men's vests, and dangling from oversized cotton T-shirts and flowing satin dresses. This delicate fabric even bisected an oversized bomber jacket, revealing its layered construction.
In a striking juxtaposition, an evening bustier top in silver and black jacquard was married to a classic men's poplin shirt, creating a glamorous office-to-evening look. Traditional tuxedo shirt pleats were reimagined horizontally on denim jackets and voluminous coats, creating bell-shaped effects at the shoulders and sleeves.
The show culminated with vintage silk scarves repurposed as tops over draped wool skirts, and adorning canvas bags, adding movement and fluidity to each step on the runway.
Lutz Huelle's SS25 collection stands as a testament to the designer's ability to challenge conventional fashion boundaries, offering a fresh perspective on classic elements while maintaining a sense of wearability and elegance.