John Galliano presents the Maison Margiela Artisanal Co-ed Collection for Autumn/Winter 2019 in Paris. Since Galliano began the Maison Margiela Artisanal collections with Spring 2015, each subsequent collection has become stronger than the last. Taking us to places fashion has yet to explore. This collection is no different. As one of the few designers that works hand in hand with the ateliers, Galliano is able to modernize centuries of know-how in craft, while also challenging audiences with beautiful and relevant fashion for the Twenty-First century.
This collection for Autumn/Winter 2019 took the culture of excess that we live in as a starting point and the degeneration of social structures as its departure. The ‘authenticity of natural human instinct’ is contrasted ‘by the impact of an oversaturated digital world where consumption turns into fetishization: desire without reason.’ From this, Galliano defines two trademarks: projective filtrage and nomadic cutting. The former, rooted by the ever-present screen, the primary medium of the digital age, is translated through his use of prints on translucent and luxurious fabrics – a metaphor for today’s ‘shiny, embossed language of consumerism.’ The latter, nomadic cutting, ‘is the technique of transforming one predetermined wardrobe staple into another, effectively migrating it on the body.’
Galliano pays homage to the house of Margiela with the unique approach of cutting with intent to reveal inner constructions of the garments. This is executed in a brutalist way that at once becomes a rejection of the bourgeoise history of couture but that also retains its language leaving his designs with a profound irony. As described in the press release accompanying the show, ‘the familiar anachronises and fuses with the clichés of haute couture.’
What we love most about Galliano’s Margiela is not only the brilliant artwork of the garments but also their presentation. For example, each runway image below is provided a detailed caption of the garments’ construction as well as reference points. Models on the runway, as in most Galliano collections since his earliest beginnings, walk in provocative ways, giving life and passion to the various looks and identities projected.
Explore the full collection below. Images courtesy of Maison Margiela.