John Galliano presents Maison Margiela, Artisanal Men’s collection spring/summer 2019 in Paris. The debut collection from the ingenious Galliano signifies an unrestricted foray onto the territory of haute couture for men in a conversation with a new masculinity in motion. The artisanal collection could not come at a more relevant time, not only for its stunning creativity but also as a contribution to the art of fashion, as the men’s wardrobe – and fashion in general – becomes increasingly narrow and ready-to-wear driven. This collection is exclusively bespoke and will inform a men’s ready-to-wear line to be released as a co-ed spring/summer 2019 Défilé show in September. Coinciding with the show, American artist Tony Matelli was invited by Galliano to present four recent sculptures alongside the show. The full collection and artworks appear in the gallery below.
The inspiration behind the collection:
“Reflecting on the streetwear culture of the current menswear climate, John Galliano exercises his pyramidical approach to creation through an exploration of new values. It is an appreciation of the current evolution of male dress codes, and the desire to take it to unexplored places of craftsmanship for a young generation. The bias-cut – a technique native to the creative language of John Galliano – transforms traditional bespoke tailoring into a mercurial and hyper-modern take on suit-making. Executed in silks and tweeds, bias-cutting generates a harmonious exchange between fabric and body, expressed in a louche and liberating silhouette for an advancing male dress sense.
The intricacy, techniques and time inherent to haute couture are applied to traditional ideas of male dress in a transcendence of gender-specific uniforms. It is the experimental proposal of a reimagined sexuality, sensuality and individuality for a new mentality. Rooted in authenticity, garments informed by the wardrobes of formalwear and leisure pursuits undergo a process of repurposing. Original kimonos – some from the eighteenth century – are reconditioned into garments for the contemporary wardrobe. Corsetry, cape cuts in outerwear, and hand-embroidery in surface decoration nod at classic couture codes, whereas rubber and leather moulding reflect a less traditional approach to craftsmanship.
The Artisanal show is embedded in expert dressmaking and a new consideration of the tradition of haute couture. Drawing on terminology established in recent Artisanal proposals, notions of relaxed glamour, dressing in haste, appropriating the inappropriate, and dressing in reverse underpin the collection. House techniques such as anonymity of the lining, the memory of, and décortiqué, materialise throughout, honouring and honing the Artisanal identity of Maison Margiela.
‘Through the potential of Artisanal possibilities, conventional dress codes are broken down in a discovery of diverse individualities for a new age of self-expression.’ – Maison Margiela.
Coinciding with the house’s first ‘Artisanal’ Men’s show Friday morning in Paris, Maison Margiela will launch a new first of a kind fashion podcast series: ‘The Memory of… With John Galliano.’ The podcast tells a story usually only heard by select fashion insiders. It will take you on a journey to Creative Director Galliano’s Paris Atelier where he personally reveals the thinking behind his first ‘Artisanal’ Men’s show. He speaks to new definitions of masculinity and femininity, his introduction of bias cut to menswear and the sensuality it brings to a tailored suit, and the current regeneration of menswear with new top designers at luxury houses. ‘The Memory of… With John Galliano’ will be available on ITunes and Spotify. The second podcast in the series will be launched with the ‘Artisanal’ Women’s show in Paris on July 4th, 2018.”
Music for the podcast by Jeremy Healy.
KCD Digital conceived the podcast series for Maison Margiela.
Explore the full collection below. Images courtesy of KCD / Maison Margiela.