Maison Mihara Yasuhiro Creates ‘Big Little Paradox’ for Fall-Winter 25

By: Jesse Scott

The genesis of Maison Mihara Yasuhiro's FW 25 collection was humble: the idea of a "little paradox." But don't let that fool you. By reviewing the basics of tailoring, and reconsidering that word's place within our society and its perceptions of fashion, Yasuhiro launched a revolutionary collection that was as sartorially dramatic as it was conceptually subtle. Desiring to re-invent the core of the brand's identity after an illustrious 30-year history, Yasuhiro deconstructed to reconstruct, subverting expectations of what garments should look like in a nuanced and intellectual way completely his own.

As the initial few looks swaggered down the runway, one of the first words that came to mind was "voluminous." Dramatic oversized silhouettes, which displayed a mastery of layering both as a whole and within particular garments, emerged in a diverse and versatile range of materials. Perhaps most notable, and subversive, was Yasuhiro's fluid exploration of what defines "shirts" and "pants." Yasuhiro forced us to reconsider our expectations of tailoring and form by converting the patterns of pants into sleeves. He also debuted two new blousons, staples of the collection, that employed inverted patterns and upside down docking to subtly re-orient and indeed evolve garments born from familiar silhouettes (Looks 1, 2). Many designers would have framed this as a bold and dramatic shift. But from the poised Yasuhiro, forever unfazed by the stresses of the frenetic fashion world, it came across as a sincere and introspective personal exploration driven by an innate curiosity.

Yasuhiro's distinctive urban grunge aesthetic was in full force this season. Denim and corduroy were omnipresent, hoodies featured on many looks (some paired playfully with colorful ties) (Look 16), and worn shades of navy (Look 34), grey, and khaki (Look 26) centered the rugged color palette. More elegant looks were interspersed: for example, a graceful camel blazer and flowing pants with a creatively draped white pinstripe shirt (Look 13). Shimmering geometric shapes were subtly embossed on a number of pieces, adding an artistic urban sensibility, while varsity jackets (Look 51) were distinctly attuned to Parisian street style.

Yasuhiro is a master of texture play, often weaving many materials into singular looks in a way that surprises while still feeling cohesive. This season saw him introduce a number of furry jackets, dresses, and hats that added a delightful touch of femininity while still fitting with the collection's rugged and daring personality.

Headwear, shoes, and bags starred. As part of Yasuhiro's reflection on the passage of time, he collaborated with Autry for a series of Made-in-Italy sneakers that were given a gritty worn effect through a seared finish on the soles. Yasuhiro also embraced surrealist sensibility, as models sauntered down the runway in trompe d'oeil shoes that appeared to be cloth totes or quilted handbags (the handbag heels in particular are a must-have item for the coming season). The bags were vintage Yasuhiro, proposed in iconic T-Rex, bear, and duck shapes. Meanwhile, knitted hats were proposed in a whimsical array of styles, some shaped as pillows, others covering the models' faces leaving only slits for eyes, and others towering like top hats. As is always the case for Yasuhiro, no detail was left unconsidered. Of striking form, and many of substantive bulk, the hats were beautifully layered onto outfits to complement their already complex layering.

Firmly solidified as a cult fashion icon, Yasuhiro drew a number of big names to his FW 25 show. Mandy Sekiguchi, Youv Dee, and Take a Mic, who performed, were among the stars who dazzled in the show's unique subterranean location. Amidst a packed hall of delighted guests, they got to witness Yasuhiro's resoundingly successful re-invention - that unintentionally may start an exciting sartorial revolution.