Marine Serre fall winter 2023

January 22, 2023

Marine Serre FW23

Marine Serre presents the fall winter 2023 collection in Paris. The show is titled, 'Rising Shelter.'

Collection Notes

Today’s presentation of the house’s latest collection, set under the impressive soaring volumes of the Grande Halle de La Villette, may rely on a poetic, almost mystical, ambiance—but the message of the show could not be more clear.

This set pulls together a handful of recognizable signs and symbols. As the sun streaks across the space, how can we fail to think about the ever-quickening timeline on which we find ourselves trapped, forced to maintain the unsustainable rhythms of our daily lives that separate us from both ourselves and others? Those disconnections have, of course, precipitated today’s equally rapid acceleration to climate disaster, which now seems to have been dialed up to an out-of-control setting. At the center of the stage, a trio of oppressively high towers, constructed of tightly compressed abandoned clothing, echo our own absurd destruction of this planet.

Marine Serre, FW23
Marine Serre, FW23


But step back and take in the whole picture. For just as we can imagine present and future tragedies, we can also envision reasons for optimism. We all know that whenever something goes wrong, there are always those courageous souls who are willing to step up and face reality. For possibilities and predictions need not always translate into inevitabilities. Within this set’s scale model of a future dystopia, perhaps we could also imagine that today’s guests, huddled closely together inside this refuge of tomorrow—our rising shelter—might actually join forces to fight together, engaged and allied in a push for an improved society.

Our house believes that exploring alternative outlooks and visions will transform the fashion industry. That’s one of the reasons why this show has been thrown open to all, with more than half of the guests given free admission—for we know that outside voices can only help to strengthen the forces pushing for needed rebellion, meaningful changes and ultimately, fundamental transformations. Setting off that strong chain reaction could create and transmit indispensable hope to present and future generations.

Each of the five families that form today’s Rising Shelter collection builds upon those linked themes of engagement, rebellion and transformation.


The first grouping is crafted from a small selection drawn from the overwhelming number of cream, white and beige tote bags that now overwhelm our universe. Since it’s estimated that each “earth-friendly” cotton tote actually needs to be used 20,000 times to offset its overall impact of production—or, roughly, 54 years of daily use—perhaps this offering of elongated casual and often unisex designs (bowling shirts, coats, trucker jackets, skirts and overshirts) may inspire us to think of alternative uses for this now over- abundant resource.

The runway then places the spotlight on the house’s familiar archetypes—with new offerings created from recovered grey and black denim, household linens, tees and leather, as well as MARINE SERRE’s now-iconic moiré, with shimmering designs crafted from yarns created from recycled fishing lines and nets. Distinctive rebellious motocross colors and patterns have been repurposed into leather accessories and couture creations. A softer tone of voice is clearly evident for this season, with jeans embellished with a faded take on the familiar house moon, tee designs turning to dawn-and dusk-inspired tones, and, overall, a more elongated and refined silhouette seen across the collection.


The house’s collection of elegant designs begins with a grouping of signature fluffy knit designs, with their playful coquettish spirit. Next, the MARINE SERRE team adapts an array of deadstock fabrics more commonly spotted inside highly ornamented interiors (including patterned tapestries, jacquards, and brocades), transforming them into body-skimming patchworks that rely on orange lines to delineate and accentuate curves, creating complex-yet-minimal silhouettes. Somehow, grandma’s favorite living-room fabrics have been unexpectedly reborn, making for the most modern of offerings.

They are followed by a very feminine grouping of black tailoring designs accentuated with contrasting top stitches. Finally, the layered floral patterns and acid-green tones of the sensual repurposed silk scarf designs help wrap up the show with a needed focus on rebirth and nature. This hope of transformation, of course, depends on each of us doing our part. And that’s why MARINE SERRE continues to make every effort to form part of the solution—all elements of today’s show, for example, rely on found elements and the eight-meter tall towers of abandoned textiles are destined to provide the raw materials of future house designs. Setting imagination and creation at the service of transformation is key—each of us holds the power to help slow down the present accelerated timeline.