Martine Rose showed the spring summer 2023 collection through a digital presentation. The inspiration takes from “urgent sexual encounters or hurried dressing afterwards. Moreover, it is an investigation into how garments are pulled against the body and its resulting shape or attitude.”
The new shrunken silhouette plays with proportion and fit. The idea of wedging yourself into something a bit too small – this is the feeling Rose is after in this collection. “A simultaneous constriction and roomy comfort.”
“This pressure and tension is also explored in tailoring – where fabric is pushed up and held by its inner construction to sit ruched on the hips, the pocket bags are enlarged and pulled out and the trousers fit intentionally tight to rudely expose the fly.
This tugged silhouette is touched on more lightly with twisted seam trousers – where the seams are brought forward, creating new movement on the leg and more shape around the knee. The references to awkward Friday-night-office-drink-doorway-gropes within the twisted tailoring become more archetypal sexual allusions with accessories; a belt converts into a pair of restraints and can be padlocked closed, the quilting in another belt references BDSM cuffs, a jeans fly has a large ring attached for easy access.“