MCM Spring-Summer 2025 Dives Under the Sea for Inspired Season-less Collection

Text: Jesse Scott

German brand MCM used the star-powered stage of Milan Fashion Week to present an inspired new “Under the Sea” collection that adhered to the brand’s core values while sending the public on a dramatic journey beneath the waves. The collection, inspired in part by the designer’s love of scuba diving, added contemporary twists to classic silhouettes and was committed to translating undersea textures and light patterns to a comprehensive wardrobe ranging from shirts to bags. It also was in perfect alignment with MCM’s motto of SMART luxury: Seasonless, Made for Movement, Ageless, Responsible, and Transformative.  

Long considered an alternative to traditional luxury, MCM has taken an environmentally conscious approach to its designs, creating long-lasting and versatile pieces that can be re-styled each year even as trends change. The brand has subverted industry expectations in its relentless pursuit of sustainability, committing to the concept of "season-less" collections instead of succumbing to the pressure of developing and presenting four new collections on a tight timeline each year. As the press was told, this philosophy is "in keeping with modern lifestyles but is also a way to be more conscious about our consumption.” Looks should not be classified as Spring-Summer or Fall-Winter but should instead be seen as hybrids that can be styled differently across seasons.

For example, the Coral Mountain segment of the new collection featured trucker shorts and tropical-style shirts paired with recycled poly jackets for when the weather gets chilly. One such jacket showcased this versatile approach, designed to transition seamlessly between seasons. In referencing coral reefs through the graphics on the accompanying bags, MCM provided an explicit visual reminder of the importance of protecting the environment.

The most impressive capsule from the new collection was titled "Night Diving." As brands across the fashion industry continue to discover the versatility of neoprene, MCM paired it with leather in a deceptively complex "Magic Gilet" vest with zippers reminiscent of those on scuba suits. The vest was a contemporary classic executed with technical precision: a perfect allusion to the direction of MCM moving forward. This innovative approach was exemplified in Look 8 of the collection, which featured a striking black outer piece paired with a complementary bag.

Bringing back retro silhouettes (for example, the varsity jacket) while using distinctly modern and sustainably produced materials, MCM has once again illustrated its commitment to both its own rich heritage and the values of younger generations.