Milan’s FW25 runway season revived the bold energy of the '90s and early 2000s, with standout footwear from Giuseppe Zanotti, Santoni, Casadei, Rene Caovilla, and Le Silla blending innovation and heritage.
By Jesse Scott
Fashion went back to the future for Fall-Winter 2025, as the bold silhouettes and rock & roll glamour of the 1990s and early 2000s took over the runways. Amidst the renewed dominance of fur, dramatic resurgence of sheer, and universal embrace of well-tailored layers, shoes also seized the spotlight and basked in a new era of joie de vivre. Nowhere was this more evident than in Milan, as beloved brands like Giuseppe Zanotti, Santoni, and Casadei debuted enchanting new pieces while revitalizing classics to converse with our contemporary flashpoint. With fashion month wrapping up, we sorted through the abundance of shimmering gemstones and swoon-worthy stilettos to highlight our favorite collections of the season.
Giuseppe Zanotti
Giuseppe Zanotti has embraced minimalism in recent seasons, returning to the roots of his iconic label and inviting clients to explore his core design philosophies. "It was necessary to strip away excess and rediscover the true essence of the brand," he said. "We now present a collection unafraid to reveal our soul and showcase our DNA."
The line, built on the duality of block and stiletto heels, exudes sleek refinement with iridescent glamour for special occasions. The GZ Dafne sandal stood out as one of the season's best evening looks—a sinuous golden choker snap, frosted in crystal pavé, fluidly draped across the foot in a flattering yet forgiving silhouette. Another highlight: a minimalist stiletto made seductive by an oversized, intricately bejeweled flower hugging the heel. The 90s were echoed in a sensual over-the-knee suede boot, perfect for pairing with the season’s sexiest silhouettes, and the D'Orsay—a ballerina flat re-imagined with a flirtatious kitten heel—could become a Zanotti signature.
Santoni
Santon’s 50th anniversary celebrated the artisans behind its vision. A family business rooted in tradition, Santoni used this milestone to offer supporters an intimate glimpse into the resilient heart of its craftsmanship. Entitled Meraviglia (the Italian word for "wonder"), the collection inspired us to marvel both at impeccably crafted leather works and at the industrious spirit they were forged in.
Photographer Jack Davison visited the maison to capture the series Meraviglia - Makers of Beauty for 50 Years; this was then presented in conjunction with the FW25 collection at an exclusive Fashion Week event. Time, described by Santoni as the most noble facet of luxury, is at the essence of Davison's work. So too are detail and humility; with the camera as his medium, Davison penned a love letter to the artisans who painstakingly craft each shoe with diligent eyes and steady hands.
The photos added context to a collection that blended elegance with function. A corrugated metallic effect on bags and shoes evoked art deco grandeur, while a color palette of oro, bronzo, and ebano meraviglia bathed the pieces in Marche’s golden light. Men's shoes remained the epitome of Italian elegance, with the seamless Uniqua construction shaping a fluid form to be completed by the brand's stately double buckle. On the women's side, lambskin ankle boots combined comfort with timeless style, furry boots added a sumptuous touch of après ski glamour, and sculpted pumps shaped a contemporary femininity.
Casadei
One of the most insatiably innovative designers in Italy, Cesare Casadei always seems to be pioneering a new aesthetic or in the vanguard of a revolutionary trend. His Fall-Winter 2025 offering, entitled La Donna Farfalla was no exception. Cesare encapsulated the energy of "free-spirited women from the past" into a collection distinctly suited for contemporary needs; not confining himself to a single historical inspiration, he shaped a diverse and vibrant oeuvre that transcended time.
The Casadei woman is both sensual and powerful, a duality explored throughout the collection. There was a strong equestrian inspiration this season, with the Riderarma boot proposed in calfskin and suede with a playful shearling trim. Also memorable was the black faux fur edition to the Après Ski collection, its silver button details adding a touch of cosmopolitan flare. The Lingerie boot continued the fashion world's love affair with the brand while leopard print pieces added a daring sensibility. But the highlight of the collection was the Tacco Infinity, which features a sinuous silver chain wrapping around the heel to pay tribute to Casadei's heritage through a modern silhouette.
Casadei continued to expand its Fall-Winter bag offerings. The Borsa Hobo combined sophistication and functionality; its elegant suede form ingeniously incorporated an adjustable woven knot. Meanwhile, an elaborately fringed piece recalled both cowgirl and ski aesthetics in becoming one of the most striking yet versatile bags of the season.
Rene Caovilla
Rene Caovilla ushered in a golden era for Fall-Winter 2025, celebrating the seductive magic of precious metals. Raspberry, purple, teal, and amber shimmered on metallic fabrics and sumptuous velvets, sparkling like stardust against a backdrop of rhinestones and crystals. Caovilla embodied a pure joie de vivre this season, inspiring dreams of azure oceans and seductive city nights while synthesizing timeless and contemporary sensibilities. Crystals were omnipresent. Full Crystal models were proposed in delicately frosted Mary Janes, ballerinas, kitten heels, and stilettos - a comprehensive series of looks to keep a cohesive aesthetic from day to night. Meanwhile, the eye-catching Spark, a new model which sees crystal baguettes wrapping around the ankle, offered a youthful femininity to forms ranging from sandals to cuissardes.
This was a season of both continuity and evolution, as the Braid model, one of the hottest shoes to launch in SS25, returned with a new vibrant palette. The Chandelier and Margot sandals remained iconic, with a passe-partout dark gray option joining the radiant oranges, purples, and raspberry. Finally, Caovilla proposed a stunning Cleo-style bag, with the iconic snake motif undulating off of a delicately scalloped shape.
Le Silla
Inspired by the 1996 hit "Virtual Insanity" by Jamiroquai, Le Silla transported guests into the alluring chaos of city nights for Fall-Winter 2025. Sophisticated with a nostalgic glamour, the collection seamlessly balanced sensual vulnerability with bold swagger. It captured the "alluring yet tormented beauty" the brand embodies—evident in the Cage boots, ankle boots, and slingbacks, which told a captivating story in leopard-print pony fur. A galvanized toe cap added structure to the Andreja thigh-high boots, while the Amelia pumps merged femininity with functionality in a delicate wintery pink.
As expected, the crystal-frosted Gilda line took center stage, now offered in a refreshed color palette of Mordoré brown, Cherry red, and Wall neutral. This season’s updated fairy-tale silhouettes were elevated further with a moody new "London" shade, evoking the melancholic skies of the city—most memorably seen on the asymmetrical Futura pumps and seductive V-cut Vivienne slingbacks.
Fall-Winter 2025 was one of the most stellar seasons for footwear in recent memory. With many brands undergoing a modern Renaissance, while still honoring and celebrating their DNA, the future is bright in Milan.