Milan Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 Shoe Spotlight

By Jesse Scott

The shoe sector of the fashion industry has been on a wild ride in the post-Covid years, with the ostentatious neon looks that celebrated a return to normality slowly giving way to a balanced aesthetic and, as an economic recession threatened,  subdued collections that reflected an uncertain reality for companies and consumers alike.

Spring-Summer 2025 brought a rebirth of sorts.  Many brands pivoted in an exciting new direction that saw bold and innovative designs emphasize both comfort (lower heels are in at the moment) and timeless glamor. Historic brands such as Casadei and Fratelli Rossetti paired their peerless artisanal craftsmanship with striking modern silhouettes, Le Silla celebrated 30 years with one of the most spectacular collections of the season, and Paris Texas continued its relentless ascension with revolutionary takes on the Western trend.  Without further ado, here’s our guide to the brands and pieces that you must have in your Spring-Summer 2025 wardrobe.

Celebrating its 30th anniversary in style, Le Silla sourced inspiration from the surrealists to mark the passage of time with a spectacular new shoe. The Anthea, a member of the Petalo pump family, features a flower-inspired detail which seems to flow down the heel like one of Dali’s melting clocks. Available in a rich variety of colors, each inspired by a specific flower and selected so as to provide a perfect complement for all skin tones, the Anthea stands as my top must-have piece for Spring-Summer 2025.

Safari is having a moment throughout fashion right now, and Le Silla is no exception. Described as evoking refined and responsible luxury, the Safari capsule presented bold python and leopard prints alongside offerings in a sober yet sumptuous chocolate brown. Highlights include deadly five-buckle ankle boots, which open from the back, and the introduction of square toe pumps, a new frontier for Le Silla which saw the brand embrace easy practicality while maintaining its signature feminine sensibility.  

Paris. Texas. At first glance a study in contrasts bordering on oxymoronic, the pairing is the foundation of a beautiful marriage in the hands of visionary designer Annamarie Brivio. Western-inspired wear has been a darling of Europe’s fashion scene in recent seasons, with Beyoncé’s March release of “The Cowboy Carter” marking the culmination of its embrace by the global mainstream. But Brivio was years ahead of the trend, elegantly combining the chic sensuality of Paris with the audacity of Texas cowboys ever since founding her brand in 2015. 

Unfailingly sophisticated and deceptively complex, Brivio’s silhouettes start from familiar shapes and styles then use texture and volume to elevate them into something delightful and entirely unexpected. Many of my favorite pieces can best be described as fusion; take elegant slingbacks with an embellished cowboy boot-style toe, suede fringe loafers with boat shoe stitching, or ballet flats in an artisanal raffia.

Trompe l’oeil was also a major theme this season, with faux denim crafted of leather starring on a striking pair of cowboy boots. Meanwhile, high drama was created by lace-up sandals in crocodile leather, towering boots with mesmerizing spiraling fringes, and the addition of leopard-printed pony hair to the 70s inspired Mara wedges. A brand on the rise, irreverently embracing fierce femininity and bold innovation as represented in its desert-inspired fall-winter 2024 ad campaign, Paris Texas should become a perennial highlight on the Milan Fashion Week calendar.

Forever honoring his brand’s rich artisanal tradition while remaining at the forefront of avant-garde innovation, Cesare Casadei found new frontiers once again for Spring-Summer 2025.  Possessed of a casual youthful glamor, and introducing several clever new designs, the collection strengthened the association between Casadei and Ibiza (where the brand has sold limited-edition capsules in recent seasons), and should continue to expand its appeal to the young, boho, and beautiful.

This season saw Casadei debut some truly exceptional techniques unprecedented in the industry. For example, the Zeppa Blade, a leather slipper, inverted our expectations of shoe construction by featuring an exquisite raised insole made of hand-hammered metal. Meanwhile, by hand-painting calfskin with dabs of chiaroscuro color, Casadei introduced a trompe d’oeil crocodile leather in its Jurassic mules.

Other highlights included the Salinas capsule, which used recycled crocheted yarn in a series of totes, sandals, and bucket hats. Effortlessly chic, and available in striking colors like pastel pink and vivid orange, the pieces are perfect for a casual beach day on la Isla Blanca. Even this season’s bridal collection was memorable for its carefree charm. A variety of seductive pearl-encrusted sandals complemented the classic heels and ensured that brides can dazzle in Casadei from the altar to their honeymoon.

Entitled “Shades of Earth, Shades of Summer,” Fratelli Rossetti’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection celebrated the natural colors and the fine craftsmanship forever ingrained in the brand’s DNA. The iconic Brera loafer was proposed with two new styles of woven workmanship: the “tech weave,” sewn on a mesh support, and “lettuce leaf edging,” which effectively simulates a wave-like movement. Equally memorable were the men’s oxfords with woven details and loafers with a large stylized motif.

From the golden hills to the azure waves, Santoni captured the colors and spirit of its home Marche region with an exuberant “Santoni Riviera” collection for Spring-Summer 2025. Described to the press as “an invitation to an Adriatic dream,” the collection dazzled with an array of metallic and vibrantly-colored looks that encapsulated the aura of effortless Italian glamor. 

The new Serpentine sandal, presented in both heels and flats, left an instant impression in textured striped leather resplendent in colors inspired by Adriatic twilight. Elsewhere in the collection, the DBS Oly model continued Santoni’s momentum in the luxury sneaker space. Featuring the brand’s signature double buckle detail translated into sporting form, the sneaker came in both nappa and mirror leather to provide options for both elegant daywear and glamorous nightlife. Milan's Spring-Summer 2025 footwear collections blend artisanal craftsmanship with bold innovation, promising a season where every step blends Italian elegance with contemporary flair.