N°21 translates the films of Sofia Coppola into its FW25 collection with urban sophistication and nostalgic cinema references.
By Jesse Scott
Numero Ventuno (N°21) made a strong first impression during the first day of Milan Fashion Week. Founder and creative director Alessandro Dell'Acqua debuted a sophisticated and nuanced collection before a full house of delighted guests. Dell'Acqua beautifully distilled his particular brand of unapologetic urban chic into a diverse yet cohesive series of looks that celebrated women seizing their own destinies. Sofia Coppola served as his primary inspiration, and the nostalgic angst of finding oneself (as interpreted by Lost in Translation) permeated the show from start to finish.
Contemporary Classics with Effortless Defiance
Dell'Acqua opened the show with a series of timeless looks dominated by a black color palette. The sleekly tailored garments ranged from a wool overcoat (Look 1) to an exquisite little black dress (Look 12) to a quasi-transparent caftan-inspired piece which was provided structure by a statement belt (Look 9). Models graced the runway with an effortless defiance, portraying a couldn't-care-less attitude that seduced by not trying to seduce. Cool, confident, and unbothered, many seemingly beautifully bored, they encapsulated the poised urban energy of New York and Paris as well as the resilient young generations that make these metropolises so vibrant.
Dell'Acqua excelled with layering, often in unexpected ways. An oversized double-breasted trench coat drew a stark contrast with the elaborate roaring-twenties-style feathered skirt it was ingeniously paired with (Look 37). An elegant grey blazer with deep v-neck shirt was also paired with a feather skirt, bringing together businesslike sensibility with nonchalant urban cool and a touch of glam (Look 23). Finally, a vivid red cardigan-style sweater juxtaposed a floral-patterned white skirt for an injection of playful femininity that further diversified the collection (Look 24).
Among the strongest pieces were the overcoats. A furry brown duffel, effortlessly elegant, elicited gasps of approval as it swept down the runway (Look 33). A casually draped custard yellow overcoat, one of the last looks to appear, provided a pop of pastel (Look 39). A long grey coat, worn with an elevated collar and adorned with artfully arranged black feathers, exquisitely captured the urban carefree edge of the collection (Look 15). Is its wearer returning home after a long night or heading to a meeting at which she will accidentally be the best-dressed? The answer might be both.
Sofia Coppola's Nuanced Nostalgia Dominates Runway
Dell'Acqua's moodboard was dominated by Sofia Coppola, with Marie Antoinette (the aforementioned floral print), Lost in Translation (oversized sweaters), and The Virgin Suicides (preppy silhouettes) all informing the show. Yet despite the wide range of thematic content, there was nothing lost in translation about the collection. As Radiohead's "Creep" blasted on the speakers, an exclusive guest list including Anna Della Russo, Natalia Paragoni, and Cecilia Rodriguez witnessed a signature Dell'Acqua triumph, one that synthesized a longing for the past with an understanding of the modern woman.
