Luxury fashion label Off-White presented the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, aptly named "DUTY FREE," at New York Fashion Week on September 8th. Creative Director Ib Kamara transformed Brooklyn Bridge Park's basketball courts into a catwalk and setting the stage for a collection that was a culture statement and a fashion revelation.
Kamara's vision for "Duty Free" stems from a profound personal journey. Born in Sierra Leone and raised in London, his recent trip to Ghana - the homeland of Off-White's late founder Virgil Abloh – ignited a creative spark that permeates the entire collection. This exploration of African heritage, combined with the collective memory of America as a land of opportunity, forms the essence of the SS25 lineup.
"I have vivid memories of what America, and New York in particular, represented in the collective imagination of Africans: a dreamland of utopias made real, a place of opportunities," Kamara mused in the show notes. This sentiment is woven into every fiber of the collection, crafting a collection that's nostalgic and forward-looking.
The collection subverts classic Americana sportswear through an African lens. Ultra-thin, rhinestone-ribbed hoodies shimmered against the New York skyline, bead-embellished vests recalled traditional African craftsmanship, and star-shaped skirts danced with every step. The color palette is a nod to the African continent: rich earth tones punctuated by vibrant reds and deep blues.
Utilitarian lines are sharp and architectural, creating a silhouette that's both powerful and sensual. Transparency plays a starring role with strategic cutouts and sheer fabrics adding a layer of seduction to the athletic-inspired pieces. The juxtaposition of form-fitting bodysuits against oversized jackets creates a dynamic interplay of proportions that's quintessentially Off-White.
‘Sex' belts cinch waists, adding a provocative edge to sporty ensembles. Distressed denim and leather pieces, heavy with zippers, speak to the urban grit of New York City. A new 'arrows' motif, created in collaboration with Ghanaian contemporary artist Nana Danso, adorns select pieces, serving as a visual metaphor for the collection's cross-cultural journey.
Prints run the gamut from urban camouflage to vibrant orange plaid, while hand-painted graphics add an artisanal touch to the otherwise sleek designs. These diverse elements came together on the runway, transforming the "DUTY FREE" show into a cultural event. Models of diverse backgrounds strutted down the basketball court-turned-runway, poignantly reflecting the melting pot that is New York City.
Kamara's autobiographical approach to the collection infused each piece with genuine emotion. "Pieces of clothing are way more than just objects," he explained. "While keeping their useful and functional nature, they can convey narratives and be infused with soul."
As the final model left the basketball court repurposed as a runway, it was clear that Ib Kamara had ushered in a new era for Off-White. The SS25 collection is a passport to a world where fashion knows no borders, and dreams are duty-free.
