Our Editor in Central Asia Shares his Favorite Spots in Kazakhstan’s Cultural Capital

By Jesse Scott

The center of Kazakhstan’s arts and culture scene, Almaty is one of the most cosmopolitan cities in Central Asia and a hub for the region’s young, talented, and ambitious. Home to Kazakhstan Fashion Week, which celebrated its 35th season this November, it’s a well-rounded destination that offers elite shopping, dining, and nightlife in addition to a wealth of galleries and a packed cultural calendar.  

Whether you’re an avid outdoor adventurer or prefer relaxing cocktails with a view, no trip to Almaty is complete without visiting the nearby Tian Shan Mountains (translation “the Celestial Mountains”). Accessible within a 45-minute drive of the city, these spectacular peaks are home to both the world’s highest outdoor skating rink and the mythical Shymbulak, long-time training base for the Soviet national ski team.  

Our editor Jesse Scott recently spent a week in Almaty in conjunction with his coverage of Kazakhstan Fashion Week. Just in time for the winter, he shares his favourite places to explore, ski, eat, and drink in what is called by locals “the city of apples.”

Central State Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan: A perfect initial stop for first-time visitors to Kazakhstan, this expansive museum offers an excellent overview of the country’s history, fashion, and traditions. As much ethnographic as historical, it takes visitors on a powerful journey through a vibrant culture that has endured from centuries-old nomadic times through to the 21st century.

Abilkhan Kasteev State Museum of Art: For a visual overview of Kazakh culture through the ages, look no further than the country’s largest and oldest art gallery. The Abilkhan Kasteev Museum is an encyclopedic treasure trove that is particularly effective at tracing the progression of local artistic movements through 70 years of Soviet rule. There are also a wealth of cultural artifacts and pieces by Western European and Russian masters dating from the 16th century on.

Panfilov Park: Named for the heroic “28 Panfilov Guardsmen,” members of a Kazakh infantry unit who played a pivotal role in the Battle of Moscow during World War II, leafy Panfilov Park is in many ways the center of old Almaty. Be sure to visit the Ascension Cathedral, an exquisite Russian Orthodox church that has stood for over 115 years as one of the largest wooden structures in the world. Also allow an hour for the Musical Instruments Museum, a compelling introduction to Kazakh folk culture.

Medeu Skating Rink: At an altitude of 1691 meters above sea level, Medeu Alpine Sports Complex is home to the highest outdoor skating rink in the world. Even for someone who grew up playing hockey on the frozen lakes of the Rocky Mountains in Alberta, Canada, this is a sight worth seeing. My advice: arrive an hour before sunset so you can enjoy both a gorgeous drive into the mountains from Almaty and the romance of skating under the stars. 

Shymbulak Ski Resort: Celebrating its 70th anniversary this year, Shymbulak has transformed from the training ground for the Soviet national ski team to the premiere winter playground for Kazakhstan’s elite. The ski season extends for almost six months, and, as I discovered when visiting for three days in late November, snow conditions at the highest elevations are excellent from the start.  If you’re making a day trip from Almaty, be sure to go on a Tuesday, Thursday, or Saturday (when night skiing is open) and don’t make any evening plans! Shymbulak has the highest night skiing slope in the world, starting from 3200 meters, and speeding down it is an unforgettable thrill that will keep you energized until the last lift.  

Sandyq: For an unmatched bland of traditional cooking and a luxurious atmosphere, look no further than Sandyq. Kazakhstan is known for its meat-based diet, and this restaurant is a carnivore’s paradise. Here you can sample mythical Kazakh staples made with the best ingredients available: must-haves include beshbarmak (lasagna-style noodles served with different types of horse meat and a rich broth), quyrdak (considered the national roast dish) and zhylyk-may (a canoe-cut marrow bone served with local pastries fresh out of the oven). Don’t miss the sturgeon caviar canapes and baursak (decadent deep-fried pastry balls) to start. For drinks, begin with shubat or smoked kumys, local delicacies made from camel and fermented mare’s milk respectively, and close with a large pot of Kazakh tea. As part of the restaurant’s mission of “communicating the national code to future generations,” traditional tableware and decor are used and many evenings include live entertainment.

Ogonek: Airy Ogonek exudes contemporary cool from the soft lighting to the elegantly minimalist tableware. But it’s the culinary creations from Chef Ruslan Zakirov, most cooked over an open fire, that make this my go-to brunch spot in Almaty.  Zakirov’s take on the classic vitello tonnato (made with horse instead of tuna) is melt-in-your-mouth delicate and divinely flavorful. Vegetarian small plates, many Middle-Eastern influenced, are also highlights. Architecture-inspired cocktails take their names from famous buildings across Almaty.

Tor: Located in Esentai Mall, a glittering hub for Almaty’s best luxury dining and shopping, Tor offers a sophisticated modernist take on traditional flavors from regions throughout Kazakhstan. Try upscale versions of manty or laghman, two Kazakh comfort foods that can be loosely compared to ravioli and ramen respectively. Or opt for the chef’s delightfully creative chebureki, which re-interprets a Russian meat-filled pastry to include shrimp, goat cheese, and guacamole.  The cocktail menu deserves a special mention; each drink is inspired by the flavors of a specific region in Kazakhstan.

Rifugio del Monte: A white-tablecloth restaurant nestled in the ski resort of Shymbulak, Rifugio del Monte offers world-class French, Russian, and Kazakh cuisine in a charming setting reminiscent of an Italian ski chalet.  Luxury ingredients star in hearty cold-weather dishes; the borscht with shrimp and foie gras and foie-gras-topped horse steak are to die for after a long day of skiing. The range of culinary expertise here is truly impressive. Over the course of my recent ski trip I sampled everything from authentic Belarusian salo with Borodino bread to rich French-style mussels in gorgonzola sauce. If the Michelin guide ever comes to Kazakhstan, this spot should be short-listed for a star. 

Pink Wine Bar, Almaty: Retro glam Pink Wine Bar features sharable pizzas, locally focused cocktails, an extensive list of wine by the glass, and some of the best DJ’s in town. Delightfully fun and flirty, it’s perfect for a cozy date or as the launch point for a big night out. 

Queen Almaty: Karaoke is an integral part of the Almaty clubbing scene, and this lavish club is one of the most exclusive places to experience it. Begin with a festive dinner in the Japanese restaurant before continuing upstairs to party until the wee hours. Dress to impress; face control is in effect.