Phème Paris unveils a feminine and sensual "Lady with a Hidden Heart" collection inspired by French Riviera allure.
By Jesse Scott
Jessy Chu, whose beloved brand Phème Paris beautifully synthesizes Parisian elegance with Chinese symbolism, transported her supporters into a femme fatale fantasy for a Spring 2025 collection entitled “Lady with a Hidden Heart.” Chu’s design vocabulary transcends pure fashion to weave aspirational all-encompassing narratives that epitomize nuanced femininity with an element of ethereality. “Fairy tale” is often brought to mind by Phème Paris’s collections; for example, last season saw Chu envision a “sleeping beauty” drifting through the timeless Paris of our dreams. Spring 2025 also had fairy tale moments, but of a distinctly modern type better encapsulated by Brigitte Bardot and French New Wave cinema than by anything Disney or Hans Christian Anderson. Chu pictures her heroine in sun-kissed Saint Tropez - uncontrollable and in control, delighted by life and desired by all, and unequivocally free. Flowing silhouettes dance in feminine florals while playful mermaid skirts murmur the siren calls of the sea. Pink and turquoise pastels are fit for a princess while pops of metallic knits speak to timeless glamor.
Following the launch of her collection, and before a much-anticipated Saint-Tropez shoot, the ever-eloquent Chu sat down with Rain’s Jesse Scott to talk about the latest steps in Phème’s evolution and this season’s heroine - the seductive Calypso.
JS: Are there any pieces that are particularly meaningful for you this summer? What is the story behind them?
JC: One piece that holds special meaning for me this summer is the sky-print dress. The sky has always felt deeply emotional and tender—it represents femininity in a way that is moody and fragile, yet also encouraging, warm, and joyful. Prints can be very personal, and it’s rare to find one that resonates with everyone, but I believe no one dislikes the sky. I wanted to capture that feeling of freedom and lightness, so I designed a silhouette with flowing chiffon and silk ribbons. When a woman wears this dress, I hope she feels as free and beautiful as the sky itself.
JS: Tell me more about the ruffled smocked maxi skirt and halter; the intricacy of this look immediately caught my attention.
JC: The first time I saw this fabric, I immediately fell in love with it. It reminded me of bamboo, which in my culture symbolizes resilience, longevity, peace, happiness, and harmony. Bamboo has an elegant and graceful presence—slender yet strong, evergreen and enduring, a symbol of eternal youth.
I didn’t fully appreciate it when I was younger, but now, as a mother of three, I’ve come to admire its quiet strength. It’s not something that immediately catches the eye with a dramatic "wow," but the more you look at it, the more you fall in love. There’s an abstract beauty in that, which inspired me to design a very sensual back cut for this look. I also incorporated small beads into each thread, reminiscent of traditional garments, to add a subtle yet intricate detail.
For me, this is a look that blends sensuality with elegance, something that can be mixed and matched effortlessly with different pieces in a wardrobe. It’s undeniably sexy, yet refined—designed for a woman who embraces both her confidence and grace.
JS: Last season your collection possessed a particular ethereality. This season seems an evolution of that, as discerning touches of sheer and billowing florals seem to melt into a pastel fairy tale. Describe the progression...who is this season's protagonist?
JC: Thank you! I’m really glad to hear that you see the evolution of the collection. This season’s theme is Calypso. She embodies the femme fatale and the goddess of love, blending temptation with softness. If last season was ethereal, this summer is sensual—an island beauty, ultra-sensual and effortlessly captivating.
We want to tell the story of a woman everyone desires—an enchanting muse who is both sensual and mysterious, leaving a lasting impression on everyone who meets her gaze. She is the woman every woman dreams of being in the summertime, especially on a vacation in Saint-Tropez, where we will be shooting our upcoming collection.
This collection is rich in detail, with a variety of prints, handmade roses adorning a crochet dress, and a fabric designed to evoke bamboo—an important and symbolic element in Chinese culture. There’s also an organza top that moves beautifully with the wind, adding to the feeling of effortless grace. More than anything, I hope that every woman who wears these pieces can feel like Calypso—powerful, desired, and free.
Imagery courtesy of Phème Paris