Philipp Plein FW25 Makes Dramatic Milan Men’s Fashion Week Reveal with French Montana

By Jesse Scott

Philipp Plein has always been known for his dramatic shows, and his Milan Men’s Fashion Week debut, which took place at the glittering newly opened Plein hotel, did not disappoint. A celebrity guest list including Stefano Sala, Chadia Rodriguez, and Wretch 32 sat salon-style in plush banquettes to watch a series of sharply tailored looks proceed down the runway with the vintage swagger that has endeared Plein to his loyal supporters. Glitter and glam were in abundance, while carefully chosen graphic touches and nods to iconic silhouettes such as the varsity jacket added a distinct and nuanced personality to the collection. 

This season marked the continued evolution of Plein as a designer. Quintessential pieces such as a literally star-studded leather jacket (Look 8) and a bedazzled gold, silver, and black sheath dress (Look 19) were balanced by more classic looks in neutral colors. This paradigm followed the trajectory of the past several seasons, which have seen an increased emphasis on tailoring and a more versatile range of looks – noteworthy as Plein continues to expand his global family.

Gasps of approval were elicited from the audience early in the show, as a pair of models in contrasting ink black and pure white tuxes, with color-coordinated turtlenecks, oversized sunglasses and sporty sneakers to match (Look 5), walked out together. Deadly sleek, and unquestionably timeless, they set the tone for a series of looks to come. A black pinstripe power suit was playfully paired with a hoodie in a uniquely Plein touch (Look 7); shortly after, a Top Gun-style bomber was worn with combat boots (Look 12). Classic bear-embossed sweaters were paired with versatile jackets (Look 22), while a paint-splotched denim outfit winked at the forever-beloved “workman” aesthetic with both glamor and swagger (Look 24). Meanwhile, gray tartan coats, one worn over a classic double-breasted suit and another paired cheekily with a denim ensemble, embraced a transatlantic winter elegance that would look at home in New York, London, Milan, or Hamburg (Look 27).

Despite being presented during Milan Men’s Fashion Week, the collection did not neglect women. A red-carpet ready silver dress (Look 26), an intricate short white knit (Look 13), and a sultry sheer black look (Look 9) were highlights among a selection of pieces that cohesively continued Plein’s womenswear narrative. The accessories were also notable, as oversized totes and the combat boots were possessed of an edgy masculinity.

The show ended with high drama, as French Montana emerged to set the tone for the final walk. It was a fitting way to celebrate a new era for Plein, sending an already-exuberant crowd into the after-party happy and capping a contemporary classic show that leaves us tantalized as to how the German designer will continue to grow his menswear moving forward.