Pierre Cardin FW25 Transports Us Through Space and Time

Pierre Cardin FW25 presents a cosmic voyage through futuristic nostalgia at Paris's iconic Geode.

By Jesse Scott

There was no shortage of high drama in Parc de la Villette on Monday as Pierre Cardin took guests on a "Moon Safari" to mark the launch of an expansive FW25 collection. In the spirit of the house's founder, who rose to sartorial prominence during the Space Age, Cardin pushed the boundaries of futurism further than ever this season.

Encapsulating the vibrant spirit of adventure and delightfully surprising synthesis of contemporary and retro that have become Cardin hallmarks, the collection proposed bold new silhouettes with a bright colour palette and nostalgic sensibility. They strutted down an outdoor runway in front of the spherical mirror-ensconced Geode, a marvel of modern architecture that was built in 1985 but just re-opened after an extensive renovation period in December 2024.

Emblematic of Cardin, both the man and the brand today, the Geode was the perfect venue for this spectacular show. Shimmering in the post-sunset haze as the "clair de lune" appeared, it complemented the cosmic appeal and transformative power of a sartorial fantasy that conversed with ancient millennia, recent generations, and future dreams alike. A live violin player, perched on the corner of the L-shaped runway in an iridescent blue dress, added musical context to the mystical atmosphere. Meanwhile, the expansive collection surprised and enthralled from first look to last.

Vibrant colour and elaborate sculptural form are longtime trademarks of the Pierre Cardin vocabulary and continued to be central this season. Electric blues, pinks, and yellows emerged in an array of undulating pieces that encapsulated a particular type of lunar opulence. Practical silhouettes were accentuated with striking patterns and imaginative geometric details (Looks 9, 11).

Voluminous coats, dramatically draped cape and spacesuit-reminiscent constructions defined the more editorial looks. Maximalist minimalism was key to the styling. For example, a boldly contoured pink jacket floated down the runway over shimmering metallic leggings that had simple form but distinctive flare (Look 1).

Meanwhile, simple white suits with technical sensibility were enveloped with billowing swaths of delicate futuristic fabric (Looks 19, 20).

Covetous cosmic-inspired accessories recurred throughout the collection. Reflective lunar sunglasses with radiation protection highlighted many looks (Look 30) (and were also worn by the sea of sleekly dressed attendants who ushered guests into the show space and the Pierre Cardin universe).

Imposing astronaut helmets were proposed in silver while a glittering gold helmet seemed to have been transported to the runway from an epic about medieval knights or ancient Egyptian warriors (Look 18).

Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin, designer of the collection and president of the brand, is not only imagining a better future but also actively taking steps to create one. Basilicati-Cardin introduced an upcycling line produced from the maison's dormant stock while also focusing on the use of modern eco-friendly materials like sea wool and technical fibers. It's an approach that resonated with the carefully curated list of 700 guests, including Chloe Lecareux, Manon Kutner, and Diane Leyre.

Basilicati-Cardin took his bows to thunderous applause, completing a labyrinthine yet impressively cohesive voyage through time and space. With a uniquely futuristic nostalgia, Basilicati-Cardin proposed an uplifting retro modern fantasy that sent guests into the Parisian night envisioning both the golden space age and the endless possibilities ahead.