A new energy full of novel silhouettes form the Raf Simons Fall Winter 2022 show. Shown during London Fashion Week, Simons’ namesake brand took a departure from previous collections. This season extrapolated the brand codes to break new ground.
Tactile and shiny fabrications are re-introduced as streamlined silhouettes. It’s a departure from the boxy oversized shapes Simons has become synonymous with. The influence of Prada is not lost in this collection. Bucket hats and the oh-so-famous clutching of the coat (once a Galliano signature) seems at home with Raf Simons. Rather than repeating oversized knitwear, Simons instead imagines the oversized Raf sweater this season as a sweater dress. Notorious for graphic tees that recall influential moments in music, Simons’ ALTERED REALITY continue an interest in music. Prints on blazers and tees recall punk music posters as well as altered visuals of bands like the Misfits.
The bomber jacket gets a hack this season into the shape of an inverness coat. It also walks as a full length bomber dress. This may have had a stronger impact had long time friend of Simons, Pieter Mulier, not walked a similar silhouette at ALAÏA a few weeks ago.
Overall, a very strong collection from Simons and what marks an exciting new path for the label and Simons’ design lexicon.