Review: “House of Barshai” Used Classical Modernity to Make Magic

June 6, 2024

Text: Jeremy Whitaker

The Freehand’s Georgia Room has seen its fair share of runway presentations since it opened in 2021, but none have truly honored the space like the runway of Barshai Resort ‘24/25.

Designed in honor of Georgia O’Keefe, the space seamlessly blends modernity with a feeling of history that reads ancient, and similarly, the Barshai collection seems to incorporate historical staples in an innovatively modern way.

Before the models took their sultry steps down the runway, the audience had a moment to completely absorb the nature of their surroundings. The space had been transformed. Shredded white drapery hung from the ceilings diffusing light and giving the room a grandiose feeling of haunted emptiness. Abandoned candles, couches, and chairs were draped similarly and felt like memories of a mansion long-foreclosed.

The soundtrack by Macy Rodman was a highlight. Extrapolations of femme-focused monologues from films past and present created a sort of sonic chaos that worked contrary to what one may expect. Instead of overwhelming, the soundtrack created a sort of serenity through the beats and samples.

Sonics and the set-up were the perfect introduction to the visually stunning runway collection titled “House of Barshai.” The pieces truly transported the viewer into a world of the haunted Victorian manor, whose fashion-forward ghosts left envious the land of the living. Erik Barshai, a dressmaker by trade, aims to revive the idea of couture by presenting a modern take on “Dior’s bar jacket, Poiret’s cocoon coats, Chanel’s boucle and jersey-paneled front jackets, and Jacque Faith’s tight-fitting multi-paneled kimono sleeves.”

The collection came in phases beginning with an emphasis on black textiles and elegant tailoring. This portion of the runway was most intriguing in its silhouettes and details. The hair of the models was sky-high with volume, yet even the breathtaking body of the hair could not distract from the alluring garments.

To gaze upon the first raiments was to see historical classics completely reimagined. Barshai’s take on the LBD was a highly textured bodice with a tattered flare akin to fringe but with more elegance and cool factor. A favorite was a black mini skirt draped to resemble bloomers defined by a center slit to give the classic Barshai sex appeal. This skirt, paired with a Victorian steampunk-esque feathery jacket, epitomizes the Barshai woman's distinctive style.

The “warp and weft” that defines Erik Barshai’s craftsmanship was taken to a literal point in the whimsical wired bralettes that were frequent throughout the show. Alongside many classically tailored corsets, femininity was abounding.

Soon, the hair turned from eye-catching in its size to sculptural as the garments went from black to white, then from pink to grey. Instead of being an accessory to the creations, the hair became the garment, covering the scantily clad models with carefully placed curls. Breathable garments came more readily, but the Victorian-era references were not soon forgotten. From the back, the viewer could ascertain the level of craftsmanship in the sheer number of buttons whose beauty was second only to their utility.

What adds to the charm of every single Barshai piece is its functional extravagance. These garments are high-quality handmade, yet they are meant to be worn. Despite their flounce, they are undeniably accessible and relatable. This is likely due to the actual process of creation. According to Barshai, this collection “represents a culmination of a lifelong journey dedicated to redefining the boundaries of luxury fashion.” This redefining starts at inception with “small eccentricities... developed 360 on a form, embracing asymmetrical seams that don't follow traditional rules of patternmaking.”

It is almost unbelievable that “House of Barshai” marks the debut collection of Erik Barshai. It is only a matter of time until Barshai’s creativity lands him in the echelons of fashion's elite, and his place is solidified as a visionary in the fashion industry of tomorrow.