Review: Kiko Kostadinov Demonstrates Versatility, Tailoring Mastery with Clinical SS25 Collection

June 24, 2024

Text by Jesse Scott
Imagery courtesy of Kiko Kostadinov, Patricia Buren and Kotaro Iizuka

Times are changing, and with groundbreaking advances in science and technology seemingly every year, people around the globe now have new answers to the age-old question of how to maintain their youth and vitality. Kiko Kostadinov reflected on this paradigm with a cohesively structured and technically precise SS25 menswear collection that featured strong silhouettes and whimsical yet graceful executed allusions to the health industry. He explained backstage that he was inspired by "longevity," and the people in hospitals, clinics, and laboratories who are finding innovative solutions to proactively extend our "healthspan" well into old age. The result was a diverse series of refreshing new designs that still stayed unequivocally true to Kostadinov's DNA.

Bold liposome patterns offered a literal interpretation of science while also starring the vivid, clean, and geometric color blocking that has long been a signature of the Kostadinov brand. The collection featured minimalist silhouettes that referenced lab coats while featuring the asymmetrical touches that Kostadinov excels at. In perhaps the most bold choice, down "surgical" caps, many monochrome, added a satisfying finish to some of the more clinically-inspired looks.

Fiercely Structured Looks Contrast Playful Colors

There also seemed to be a military inspiration for some pieces, doubtless a result of the sharp geometry and neutral color palette inherent to both military machinery and many utilitarian scientific inventions. The first look, beautifully tailored in an elegant stone grey, illustrated Kostadinov's attention to detail through sharp slices of buttons running down each side, cuffs reminiscent of the iconic trench coat, and statement shoulder pieces referencing the epaulettes on the traditional uniforms of high-ranking military officers.

The look represented a bold masculine minimalism that is not new for Kostadinov but that has been recurring more frequently in recent seasons. It was also presented in a daring green, which, along with pops of purple, mauve, and "shocking" blue, completed the seemingly paradoxical yet always effective neon-and-neutral color contrast that typifies Kostadinov collections.

Kostadinov Remains One of the Most Innovative Designers in the World

Kostadinov's SS25 collection, one of his best menswear offerings to date, hails continued growth for the designer but also an uncompromising commitment to being himself. He plays by his own rules, effortlessly crafting as cohesive but deceptively complex a collection as you'll see in the shockingly short span of two weeks.

The 39 looks, especially when considered as a singular oeuvre, were creative and daring. Yet they also had mainstream appeal and could fit into a diverse array of wardrobes. This appeal was enhanced by his ASICS collaboration, as the legendary sportswear brand teamed up with Kostadinov to present a series of shoes with a distinctive flair. This no doubt added some new members to Kostadinov's loyal yet ever-growing following, many of whom could be seen murmuring their approval front row following another triumphant show.