Review: Louis Vuitton Women’s Fall/Winter 2024-25, Ghesquière Goes Back to the Future for A Dramatic Collection

Text: Jesse Scott

Fall/Winter 2024-25 was a season of ambitious introspection for Louis Vuitton. Nicholas Ghesquière reflected on ten years at the brand with a spectacular collection that referenced aesthetics ranging from rococo to space age, in addition to winking at many of the designer’s own iconic pieces. 

The collection was presented in the Cour Carée at the Louvre, the same location where Ghesquière made his dramatic debut for the brand ten years ago. The show took guests back to the future, as models sauntered down a grand runway in avant-garde silhouettes resplendent with regal rococo decorations. 

Louis Vuitton’s legendary craftsmanship, globally recognized for its ubiquitous bags, belts, and luggage, which are central to the brand’s DNA, was consistently recalled by this Ready-to-Wear collection. Some dresses featured prints illustrating the intricate details of certain bags; and indeed were proposed in silhouettes that mirrored such bags’ shape. The bags themselves were stellar, as elegant blues and beiges, most notably the shade “gris trianon,” an archival hue from 19th Century trunks, complemented the dresses on the runway and added some pastel personality to aristocratic looks. Deceptive deconstruction was a theme throughout the collection, as subtle fringes and finishings that walked a tightrope between rugged aplomb and quiet luxury.  

From the form-fitting silhouettes to the bejeweled details, Ghesquière recalled both masculine and feminine elements of the Versailles court in 18th century France.  The collection featured several dramatic jackets that blended the historical and contemporary through an eye-catching yet tasteful color palette that ranged from jet black to peacock blue. A personal favorite look paired electric blue with platinum silver and dazzling crystals on a streamlined jacket presented over a black mesh top. 

Ghesquière’s texture play was exceptional, as fur, leather, and silk danced together in a harmony of contrasts. Fur gloves and fringed cuffs completed many looks, the materials at once seemingly both playful and graceful against the context of a classically tailored collection. The gloves in particular transcended eras, alternately recalling the roaring 20s, the bubblegum 2000s, and the French aristocracy of 200 years ago. They are an apt symbol for a versatile collection that saw Ghesquière create bold marriages between time periods, colors and textures in a way that felt natural and understated.  

The last major event on the Paris Fashion Week calendar for many guests, the Vuitton show drew no shortage of star power. The most memorable look of the evening was worn by BLACKPINK's Lisa, whose finely embroidered rococo-style jacket mirrored several of the looks that came down the runway. Jaden Smith and Léa Seydoux also dazzled, with the former, a long-time Ghesquiere supporter, standing out in a sculpted black and white jacket and a skirt made by the designer.

Guests would be hard-pressed to find a more glamorous yet discerning collection from recent years. Ghesquière created a series of breathtaking looks while reminding us why he has anchored Louis Vuitton for a decade. Innovative yet in close discourse with the heritage of the brand, he presented a cohesive collection that appealed to a broad range of tastes while evolving from day to evening and from monarchical to modern. The collection inspired guests to follow their own 'North Star,' encouraging a personal journey of style and discovery. A celebration of Ghesquière’s journey at Vuitton thus far, it also illustrated a clear vision for the future that we are excited to follow in the upcoming seasons.