If you’re asked to sit through one hundred and nine looks, it better be a good or at least an entertaining show. Designers and mega corporate fashion, take note!
Ricardo Tisci’s third runway show for Burberry is struggling to bring its disparate pieces together. This collection was titled Evolution, a nod to the Burberry’s founding and origins in the Victorian era. It was a star studded affair with guests like Naomi Campbell, FKA Twigs, and Hunter Schafer to name a few. The cast was a crowd pleaser too with appearances by Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, and many up and coming new faces.
Mixed at best is how we viewed the collection. One look sums it up for our editors. Stockings walk with a shoulder-less top – a nod to liberation of the past and challenging norms of the present day. Whatever the statement, it simply doesn’t work. In that era, this era, or the next.
Silk patterned scarves, fringe, and tops all nod to a high street aesthetic but with a questionable execution. No clean, streamlined silhouettes here. Helvetica logo mania continues with BURBERRY stamped on much of the collection providing a point of entry for parody rather than homage to the house’s history. What does it say when we breathe a sigh of relief to see the classic Burberry check?
The silver lining was perhaps where Tisci has always shined brightest, menswear. The refined, athletic inspired silhouette looked very forward, especially beneath attractive outerwear staples. There were a series of black and white tactical looks that recall his tenure at Givenchy; a sharp masterful display of menswear as seen through sporty motifs. The rest of the show felt uncomfortable and out of focus. Who knows, maybe we’re the ones out of touch, but this collection hardly made us tip our hat.