Set against the striking backdrop of the Palais de Tokyo, Rick Owens reinvents the mythos of Hollywood with his Spring-Summer 2025 collection, casting a surreal and eccentric light on the Boulevard’s glamorized allure.
The king of avant-garde fashion once again defied convention at Paris Fashion Week last season with his white satin army of love—a powerful act of unity which served as a response to the previous ‘Porterville FW24’ show at the American designer’s dystopian home. At the Palais de Tokyo, Rick Owens orchestrated a vision of 200 distinct Owens-defined personas, delivering what felt like the final, heartfelt tribute to Hollywood Boulevard’s enduring influence. Its ‘weirdos and freaks’ remain a constant source of inspiration for the designer, celebrating the eccentric and the grandiose. Yet, in true Rick Owens fashion, his Spring-Summer 2025 collection served as a compelling sequel, drawing from the contagious energy of the Boulevard of Vice.
The Rebirth of Hollywood
From the rooftop of the Palais de Tokyo, cloaked figures rained petals onto the crowd below, setting an ethereal stage. Cardi B, arriving early in a striking felted wool ensemble, made her Rick Owens show debut. The runway, filled with an eclectic cast from across the fashion spectrum, delivered a mesmerizing sequel that blurred the lines between ideas and possibilities, turning the spectacle into a true Rick Owens renaissance.
This season’s collection is named ‘Hollywood’ after the boulevard of vice I gleefully ran to...to find my people...weirdos and freaks...living in a world Lou Reed described in ‘Walk on the Wild Side.’
The show opened with monochromatic, all-black ensembles, embodying Owens’ signature silhouette—a bold fusion of rigid tailoring and ethereal fabrics. Blazers and coats boasted exaggerated, angular shoulders; while silk, chiffon, and tulle capes were masterfully draped, offering a diversity of cloaked looks. Breaking from his own strict color palette, Owens introduced chiffon capes in striking snake green and concrete gray. Denim pieces also found their way onto the runway, including his iconic mega-frilled shrugs that complete the Owens aesthetic. Knitted gowns, with their deconstructed draping, appeared in muted dusty gray and metallic gold.
The visual spectacle left the audience with an abundance of intricate details to ponder, further deepening the nuanced language of the Owens universe.
Unity Through Individuality
Upon closer inspection, the Spring 2025 show was a masterclass of collaborations, built on the relationships Rick Owens has carefully nurtured over the years. His approach to fashion remains authentic and deliberate, a testament to the unwavering support from his cult following.
The standout inflated boots from the previous season returned in a deflated form, now featuring shin cargo packs, part of Owens’ ongoing partnership with London designer StrayTukay. The transposable, zippered jackets and coats were crafted on vintage narrow looms, thanks to a collaboration with Bonotto—a fourth-generation heritage textile mill founded in 1912 in Veneto, Italy. Meanwhile, the collection’s intricate knits were the result of a long-standing partnership with Slovenian knitwear designer Tanja Vidic.
Renegades of Fashion and Culture
The ambitious casting embodied the bold, unrestrained energy of the Boulevard of Vice. As one of the few visionaries in the Paris fashion scene challenging the traditional runway formula, Rick Owens extended beyond the realm of conventional models. Once again, he collaborated with fashion universities across Paris, enlisting students and faculty alike to join his new Hollywood army. Alongside distinguished members of Owenscorp, the runway also welcomed close supporters and friends of the brand. Hannah Dalton, one half of the Fecal Matter duo, made a recurring appearance, cementing her role as a key persona in the Owens universe. Other notable creative figures, such as photographer Kristina Nagel and makeup artist Baybjane, commanded attention on the runway.
Expressing our individuality is great, but sometimes we need to embrace our commonalities...especially in the face of the peak intolerance we are experiencing in the world right now.
Rick Owens continues to foster a tight-knit community of renegades who embody and live the brand’s rebellious philosophy.
Rick Owen’s’ Legacy: A Quest for Higher Art Forms
As the visionary himself expressed, "I always reference the lost Hollywood of pre-code black and white biblical epics, mixing art deco, lurid sin, and redeeming morality." With each Rick Owens show etched into fashion history, he continually reaffirms his defiance against the confines of the industry, evolving his design codes while cultivating his brand’s philosophy with unwavering intent.
Rick Owens unquestionably holds a disruptive and singular place in the fashion world, inspiring and uniting individuals across various creative fields. His approach elevates fashion to a higher art form, one that transcends traditional boundaries, making every season’s show a must-watch for its artistic and cultural impact.
