In a moving tribute to the spirit of Marcel Rochas, Alessandro Vigilante unveiled the Rochas Spring-Summer 2025 collection at the Théâtre du Châtelet in Paris on October 1, 2024. Titled "Parure Pour Le Sable" (Finery for the Sand), the collection reimagines the founder's vision of perpetual elegance, even at the beach, through a contemporary lens.
The runway, set against the historic backdrop of the Châtelet, became a canvas for Vigilante's interpretation of Rochas' mid-century aesthetic. Each look embodied the essence of a modern Parisienne transplanted to the sun-drenched Côte d'Azur, blending sophisticated tailoring with a casual, craft-inspired approach.
A striking ensemble that captured the collection's spirit of relaxed refinement: a sunny yellow top with subtle texture was paired with crisp, sandy-hued shorts, evoking the brightness of a Mediterranean afternoon. The look was completed with gladiator-inspired sandals that climbed up the calf, showcasing the collection's focus on coastal-inspired accessories.
In homage to Marcel Rochas' innovative beach accessories of the 1940s, the collection featured unexpected textures and materials. A standout piece was a rust-colored dress with an intricate, almost organic texture reminiscent of sea-weathered surfaces. The dress's form seemed to undulate like waves, its rich hue contrasting beautifully with the model's blue heeled sandals.
The designer's fascination with blending structure and fluidity was evident in a diaphanous outfit. A sheer, flowing dress with delicate floral embroidery was layered over a more structured underpinning, creating a play of transparency and opacity that mimicked the interplay of sun and shadow on water.
Throughout the collection, Vigilante's attention to detail was evident in the carefully curated accessories. Models wore rattan-inspired leather bags and shoes with wooden 'R' monogram heels, a nod to both the House's heritage and the collection's coastal theme.
As the show progressed, the palette evolved to include deeper maritime tones. A striking red and white striped ensemble with exaggerated sleeves recalled the bold spirit of 1940s beachwear while remaining thoroughly modern in its execution.
Rochas' Spring-Summer 2025 collection is a testament to Vigilante's ability to honor the House's rich history while propelling it into the future. By exploring the intersection of Parisian chic and Riviera nonchalance, he has created a line that speaks to the multifaceted nature of contemporary femininity.
The collection invites wearers to embrace a new kind of everyday elegance, one that is as suited to city streets as it is to sandy shores. As the final model left the runway, it was clear that Vigilante had not just presented a collection, but had invited the audience on a journey through time and place, from the bustling heart of Paris to the sun-drenched coast of the French Riviera.
This season stands as a powerful reminder of fashion's ability to transport us, to evoke emotions, and to reimagine the very concept of elegance for a new era. In "Parure Pour Le Sable," Rochas has created a collection that is both a homage to its founder's vision and a bold step into a bright, sun-soaked future.
