For Sacai 2023 Autumn & Winter Collection, Sacai designer and founder, Chitose Abe plays with the notion of ‘Everything in its right place’, exploring her belief that, in our world, there is a place and a space for everybody and for everything, even if at first glance it may seem, given our preconceptions, different to how it’s ‘supposed’ to be.
The idea translates into cutting, shifting the position of details and traditional construction, as well as moving fabrics to a new position on a garment, replacing the void that’s left behind with a different fabric, all in the pursuit of transforming garments to make something new, forever a signature for the house.
Fabrics are sliced and spliced on either horizontal or vertical planes to make a new shape. Three ribbon cuts at the base of a faux fur jacket become a layered peplum. A dress shirt is vertically sliced, and everything shifts a little to the left to create a new proportion, with another fabric, chiffon, introduced into the space that’s left behind. The polka dots on a blouse drop downwards, creating a negative space that’s filled with chiffon, with the original polka dots transformed into the flourish of a bow.
A handbag strap is used as a device to alter the shape of a dress, lending it an asymmetrical option, the easy and familiar gesture of placing it on the shoulder facilitating a particularly fluid, easy transformation.
The tacking stitch that typically suggests something temporary, makes an unexpected appearance ‘front of stage’, as embroidery on tailoring, made of bonded suiting fabric.
Abe introduces a collection that re-visits sacai’s always transformative, subversive elegance and encourages us to keep our hearts and minds open to the possibility of finding beauty in unexpected places.