Saint Laurent Women’s Fall/Winter 2024 Embraces Marilyn Monroe’s Iconic Gown with Translucent Grace

March 1, 2024

A model with a statuesque pose walks down the runway in a strapless, form-fitting top and high-waisted skirt at Saint Laurent's Winter 2024 fashion show. The backdrop is a textured curtain of deep green, and blurred audience members are visible in the foreground.

In Anthony Vaccarello's visionary presentation for Saint Laurent's Winter 2024 collection, the essence of fashion undergoes a transformative reimagining. Clothes transcend their physicality, veering towards invisibility and echoing fashion's quintessential elements. This collection not only transcends materiality but challenges the conventional boundaries of visibility and style.

Vaccarello's expertise in merging fabric with form is evident, as he crafts garments that serve as natural extensions of the body, fostering an unprecedented level of intimacy and fluidity. The collection’s innovative spirit is encapsulated in the use of close-fitting silk dresses that resemble sheer undergarments, creating a bold, translucent effect that captivates and intrigues.

A Convergence of Icons and Innovations

The audience, a mélange of the world's most renowned names, witnessed this innovative approach firsthand. Among the illustrious attendees were iconic figures like Charlotte Rampling, Lily Collins, Zoë Kravitz, and Kate Moss, each embodying the timeless allure that Saint Laurent exudes. Their presence underscored the collection's wide-reaching appeal and the brand's enduring influence on fashion and celebrity.

The Art of Revealing

In a delicate dance between concealment and revelation, the collection reintroduces transparency—a hallmark of Saint Laurent. It minimizes the distance between garment and skin, allowing the fabric to evaporate like mist. This approach redefines not only the visual presentation of the garments but also their interaction with the wearer, simulating hyper-graphic X-rays that simultaneously reveal and shroud the form beneath.

An Historical Echo

Drawing on historical inspiration, Vaccarello references Marilyn Monroe's iconic 'naked' gown, crafted by Jean Louis, thereby infusing the collection with depth. This homage, especially poignant in the wake of Kim Kardashian's choice to wear the original piece to the 2022 Met Gala, ignited conversation about the intersection of fashion history with modern celebrity culture and the stewardship of historic garments.

This reference serves as more than just a nod to a bygone era of glamour; it injects an unsettling ambivalence into the collection, challenging the traditional boundaries of feminine decorum. Through garments that mimic the ephemeral lightness and illusion of Monroe’s attire, Vaccarello poses a provocative question: Can purity itself be a form of provocation? This inquiry underpins the collection, as it explores the interplay between the seen and unseen, the tangible and intangible, puncturing the veil of feminine artifice with a collection that both conceals and reveals, provoking thought on the very nature of purity and its place in modern fashion.

Spectrality Made Tangible

Fashion’s spectral memories materialize, embodied in the confident stride of the Saint Laurent woman. The collection revisits iconic pieces, reimagined in a powdery, makeup-like palette, blending agency with desire. The embrace of fluidity, from crepe georgette suits that liquify on the body to ethereal coats crafted from marabou feathers, showcases an exceptional fluidity that redefines traditional tailoring norms.

Global Influences and Ethereal Beauty

The collection, with its occasional bursts of jewel tones against a predominantly neutral palette, captures the global influences and sublime beauty synonymous with Yves Saint Laurent's Moroccan connection. It articulates a comprehensive wardrobe that resonates with women of all ages, positioning confidence as the quintessential trait of the Saint Lauren woman. This global perspective enhances the collection's narrative, highlighting Vaccarello's adeptness at weaving diverse cultural threads into the fabric of Saint Laurent's identity.

In Conclusion

Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent Winter 2024 collection stands as a testament to the transformative power of fashion, marrying the ethereal with the tangible to redefine our understanding of style and identity. By drawing inspiration from iconic historical moments and integrating contemporary influences, Vaccarello crafts a narrative that bridges past and present, visibility and invisibility.

The presence of modern icons alongside references to timeless figures underscores the collection's universal appeal and its ability to resonate across generations. Through innovative designs and a thoughtful palette that nods to the brand's rich heritage, Vaccarello not only preserves the legacy of Saint Laurent but propels it into the future. This collection, a bold exploration of materiality and form, invites us to view fashion as a dynamic form of expression, challenging us to see beyond the surface and appreciate the profound connections between clothing, body, and identity.