Saint Laurent Women’s Spring-Summer 2025: The Quintessence of Femininity

Modern femininity embraces sartorial contradictions in Anthony Vaccarello's Spring-Summer 2025 collection for Saint Laurent. Held in the storied courtyard of the Maison's Paris headquarters, the show was a riveting exploration of the multifaceted Saint Laurent woman.

"No other House is as linked to a quintessential female archetype as Saint Laurent, whose ideal woman is more complex than the seductive perfection of classic muses," the show notes declared, setting the stage for a collection that would challenge and captivate in equal measure.

Opening with a series of impeccably tailored suits, Vaccarello paid homage to Yves Saint Laurent's own sartorial predilections. Oversized double-breasted jackets paired with wide-leg trousers created a silhouette both commanding and effortlessly chic, as seen worn by Bella Hadid (Look 33). This segment of the collection directly recalled Yves Saint Laurent's personal style, with fluid suits and jackets layered over blazers in a palette of sophisticated neutrals.

These looks, styled with cuffed shirts, classic ties, and bold eyewear, boldly challenged conventional notions of power dressing. Vaccarello's woman exudes an independent attitude, embodying the contradictions that reflect Yves Saint Laurent's own persona—a delicate balance of artful sophistication and instinctual desire.

As the show progressed, the mood shifted to a more romantic, bohemian aesthetic. Diaphanous evening gowns in metallic-streaked lace floated down the runway, their deep necklines and fluid silhouettes offering a softer counterpoint to the structured suiting. Leather jackets draped casually over these ethereal pieces, creating an intriguing juxtaposition of hard and soft elements.

Damask tunics paired with matching trousers and billowing skirts worn with daringly open blouses further explored the collection's range, evoking a sense of worldly sophistication perfect for the globe-trotting Saint Laurent clientele.

In a surprising shift, Vaccarello introduced a series of vibrant, jewel-toned ensembles that reflected his mastery of color and texture. Layered miniskirts with peek-a-boo lace hems were paired with ruff-necked blouses and sharp-shouldered brocade jackets. These vivid creations echoed the garments often seen in the works of painters cherished by the House's founder, adding an artistic dimension to the collection.

The clash of colors and patterns was deliberate and delightful, challenging the notion that sophistication requires restraint. These bold looks demonstrated that the Saint Laurent woman is equally moved to embrace her more playful, exuberant side—a duality that lies at the heart of the brand's enduring allure.

Throughout the show, accessories played a crucial role in unifying the diverse elements of the collection. Chunky gold jewelry, including statement bangles and long beaded necklaces, added a touch of glamour to both the tailored power suits and flowing bohemian dresses. Oversized sunglasses and bold-framed spectacles reinforced the collection's nod to 1980s power dressing, while patent leather pumps provided a sleek contrast to the softer, flowing elements.

In a touching homage to the House's rich history, each look was named after a woman who has been significant to Saint Laurent at different moments throughout its existence. This celebration of the diverse personalities that have shaped the brand's identity underscored the collection's exploration of complex, multifaceted femininity.

The show's backdrop evolved Vaccarello's signature monumental aesthetic. A dark linear volume inserted into the historic courtyard created a striking contrast, while an oval oculus revealed the night sky above. A tall golden frieze enveloped the space in a warm glow, and the distinctive blue floor nodded to Yves' famous gardens in Marrakech—a fitting environment for this exploration of contrasts.

Anthony Vaccarello's Spring-Summer 2025 collection for Saint Laurent reflects the brand's enduring relevance in the 21st Century. Throughout the collection, Vaccarello masterfully spans power suiting and bohemian romance, restrained neutrals and exuberant color play. Artfully capturing every facet of the Saint Laurent woman's multifaceted persona, the collection stands as an embodiment of she who moves with unwavering confidence to her own distinctive cadence, transformed and empowered by the artistry of fashion.