Text and imagery byLouise Daniel
Another formidable season of couture joinsSchiaparelli’s arsenal as theirFall/Winter 2024/25 show, titled "The Phoenix," ignites the Paris Haute Couture fashion week.
‘What is Schiaparelli showing us this season?’ It's a question you often hear from eager people from almost all walks of life, whether they're involved in fashion or not. The expectations for this Maison seem to soar higher than ever. A recent remark directed at the revered creative director,Daniel Roseberry, has been circulating in various fashion conversations, reflecting the house’s prominent position on the podium: 'People don't buy Schiaparelli, they collect it.' The question: how high can they soar?
Once again, Schiaparelli shattered expectations. Roseberry, grounded in Elsa Schiaparelli’s desire for reinvention, delivered a show that will not only be remembered but also intimately felt—whether you’re watching from the front row or from afar. By playing with the idea of rebirth, Daniel Roseberry expands the Schiaparelli universe to new heights.
Cézanne started with all the tricks and then he broke the whole thing down and built the real thing. It was hell to do.
Ernest Hemingway
A Devotion Between Client and Creation
This collection underscores couture's power to transform and elevate the wearer's experience, from the most intricate details to grandiose silhouettes. The first look featured a black velvet cape adorned with 3D chrome trompe l’oeil feathers embroidered on the shoulders, shaped into the wings of a Phoenix. It was followed by a series of monochrome looks, which also embodied the Phoenix-wing-shaped shoulders, setting the tone of the show. Low ambient lighting highlighted the structure and exquisite elements of the clothes, complementing the graceful movement of the models.
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An Intimate Approach to Couture
Daniel Roseberry revels in the details. Repurposed 3D trompe l’oeil vintage shoes adorn necklines, headpieces, and the backs of dresses. Eggs, in various shapes and forms, are transformed into statement earrings or intricately embroidered onto bustier dresses. Crinoline veils added a mysterious and pure effect to the ensembles, making it feel as though we were peering into the very souls of the wearers.
We have seen how Roseberry turns a ‘Schiap’ signature into a modern piece of ‘art wear’. As observed in Look 28’s embroidery, it is inspired by the “Apollo of Versailles” cape from the1938 Zodiac collection.
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One cannot look at a Schiaparelli show just once to fully appreciate the interconnected nature of each fabric, silhouette, and piece of jewelry. It demands to be viewed again and again.
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Expanding the Schiaparelli Universe
As a juggernaut in the fashion world, Schiaparelli continues to expand its universe in a manner that honors the past, lives in the present, and envisions the future. Roseberry’s approach introduces novelty through sophisticated changes—whether it’s an innovative shoulder shape or a dress that plays with volumes unconventionally—while remaining grounded in the house’s rich history.
Schiaparelli invites us to soar with its vision, to fly through the world of couture in a spirit of rebirth and resilience.
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