Schiaparelli Couture Fall 2024: The Phoenix Soars–Rebirth and Resilience

June 27, 2024

Text and imagery by Louise Daniel

Another formidable season of couture joins Schiaparelli’s arsenal as their Fall/Winter 2024/25 show, titled "The Phoenix," ignites the Paris Haute Couture fashion week.

‘What is Schiaparelli showing us this season?’ It's a question you often hear from eager people from almost all walks of life, whether they're involved in fashion or not. The expectations for this Maison seem to soar higher than ever. A recent remark directed at the revered creative director, Daniel Roseberry, has been circulating in various fashion conversations, reflecting the house’s prominent position on the podium: 'People don't buy Schiaparelli, they collect it.' The question: how high can they soar?

Look 1: Black velvet cape with Phoenix-wing shaped shoulders adorned with a 3D chrome trompe l'oeil feathers embroidery. Eggs earrings in shiny silver palladium.

Once again, Schiaparelli shattered expectations. Roseberry, grounded in Elsa Schiaparelli’s desire for reinvention, delivered a show that will not only be remembered but also intimately felt—whether you’re watching from the front row or from afar. By playing with the idea of rebirth, Daniel Roseberry expands the Schiaparelli universe to new heights.

Cézanne started with all the tricks and then he broke the whole thing down and built the real thing. It was hell to do.

Ernest Hemingway
Look 27: Electric blue satin gown enhanced with high slits held by a bow on each side. Matching clutch adorned with signature Padlock clasp in hammered warm silver metal.
Electric blue crinoline veil.

A Devotion Between Client and Creation

This collection underscores couture's power to transform and elevate the wearer's experience, from the most intricate details to grandiose silhouettes. The first look featured a black velvet cape adorned with 3D chrome trompe l’oeil feathers embroidered on the shoulders, shaped into the wings of a Phoenix. It was followed by a series of monochrome looks, which also embodied the Phoenix-wing-shaped shoulders, setting the tone of the show. Low ambient lighting highlighted the structure and exquisite elements of the clothes, complementing the graceful movement of the models.

Look 10: Corset bustier dress in silver silk satin enhanced with a swirling volume, a mille-feuille of moving circles in tonal satin organza at the hem and a 3D vintage shoe trompe l'oeil at the back. Half-eggs pendant earrings in shiny silver palladium and rhinestones.
Look 30: Jacket in ecru crepe satin with a draped satin and tulle skirt with aerodynamic volume, entirely embroidered with sequins and shiny silver Egg crystals. Black crinoline veil. Black velvet headpiece inspired by a vintage shoe, topped with tonal feathers.

An Intimate Approach to Couture

Daniel Roseberry revels in the details. Repurposed 3D trompe l’oeil vintage shoes adorn necklines, headpieces, and the backs of dresses. Eggs, in various shapes and forms, are transformed into statement earrings or intricately embroidered onto bustier dresses. Crinoline veils added a mysterious and pure effect to the ensembles, making it feel as though we were peering into the very souls of the wearers.

We have seen how Roseberry turns a ‘Schiap’ signature into a modern piece of ‘art wear’. As observed in Look 28’s embroidery, it is inspired by the “Apollo of Versailles” cape from the 1938 Zodiac collection.

Look 28: Butterfly volume black velvet sleeveless dress with a tonal tulle explosion embroidered with contrasted light pink square-shaped rhinestones on the lining. The embroidery was inspired by the design of the iconic Schiaparelli "Apollo of Versailles" cape from the 1938 Zodiac collection.
Matching embroidered tights and long gloves in black velvet.
Black velvet headpiece inspired by a vintage shoe, topped with tonal feathers.

One cannot look at a Schiaparelli show just once to fully appreciate the interconnected nature of each fabric, silhouette, and piece of jewelry. It demands to be viewed again and again.

Look 23: Illusion corset dress in sheer pale green mesh entirely embroidered with dusting-effect rhinestones and sequins. Nude crinoline veil. Egg pendant earrings in light green resin, rhinestones and pearls and matching ring.
Long gloves in sheer black mesh and matching stockings.
Look 22: Butterfly volume black velvet bustier dress entirely covered with a tonal faux horsehair, sequins and velvet embroidery from the Schiaparelli archives. Light green crinoline veil.

Expanding the Schiaparelli Universe

As a juggernaut in the fashion world, Schiaparelli continues to expand its universe in a manner that honors the past, lives in the present, and envisions the future. Roseberry’s approach introduces novelty through sophisticated changes—whether it’s an innovative shoulder shape or a dress that plays with volumes unconventionally—while remaining grounded in the house’s rich history.

Schiaparelli invites us to soar with its vision, to fly through the world of couture in a spirit of rebirth and resilience.

Visit our runway reviews for more insights and details.