By Jesse Scott
Haute Couture Week Fall/Winter 25 opened in spectacular fashion on Monday morning as Daniel Roseberry went 'Back to the Future' with an extraordinary collection that reimagines life and art at this moment of transition.
Ever a student of fashion, even as he redefines it, Roseberry turned back the clock eighty-five years to 1940, when France and Europe were poised on the brink of crisis. It was a bittersweet moment in history; the industry, led by Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel, marked the end of peak elegance but embarked upon a war-torn era of tragedy and turmoil. Elsa, meanwhile, decided to leave Paris for New York during wartime, ending one chapter while charting another course towards a brighter future.
Life and art are indeed on the precipice again which is why this collection felt so poignant. Described by Roseberry himself in the show notes as, 'a tribute to the sunset of elegance and the end of the world as we know it,' his latest endeavor delighted guests with an intricate narrative richly layered with subtlety and high drama. Inspired by the meticulous attention to detail characteristic of his Schiaparelli tenure thus far, he wove a captivating tale that oscillated effortlessly between striking contemporary silhouettes and timeless archival touches.
Celebrity Arrivals Set the Stage
The electric scene at arrivals set the tone for the spectacular display on the runway. Dua Lipa arrived looking stunning in a white feathered dress featuring bold shoulder pads and a cut-out replica of the iconic Schiaparelli keyhole. Philippine Leroy Beaulieu waved to fans clad in an intricately woven caramel-colored gown. Chiara Ferragni strutted into the show with her signature style, wearing a short white dress that stands out as one of my favorite Roseberry looks from recent seasons. Cardi B also made a memorable entrance, arriving dressed in a dramatic fringed outfit accompanied by her pet crow.
Glamorous Villains Create a Trompe d’Oeil Triumph
While crowds flocked to the exclusive guest list, attendees were captivated by the collection itself. Alex Consani closed the show with great impact, walking down the runway in an achingly sexy and exquisitely tailored black ensemble adorned with an intricate golden spiked neckpiece/breastplate (Look 30). This look recalled Tilda Swinton's portrayal of the "White Witch" from 'The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe,' a true showstopper that left guests entranced. Exaggerated thigh slits and discerning use of sheer fabrics remained recurring motifs throughout the collection; while Consani's breathtaking appearance was undoubtedly the highlight, this theme continued to manifest itself through other striking looks.
Roseberry has consistently demonstrated his mastery of reinterpreting Elsa Schiaparelli's surrealist sensibilities for modern times. Perhaps this season represents his most nuanced exploration of her eponymous style yet. Through subtle glances at each audience member, Roseberry wove in playful hints alongside provocative elements with an intellectual flair. Notably, he revisited equestrian references prominent in recent seasons, incorporating them into a stunning dress that mimicked an inverted saddle (Look 18). The fusion of structured elegance and sensual whimsy made both saddles and shoulder pads feel unexpectedly beautiful when paired as silver accents on fluorescent fabric, the latter inspired by futuristic designs.
Roseberry Enters a New Era
This collection felt like a watershed moment for Schiaparelli and marked the beginning of Daniel Roseberry's era. As expected from his nuanced understanding and profound respect for Elsa's sartorial legacy, he revived her iconic 'Elsa jacket' to begin the show (Look 1) while emphasizing classic motifs such as eye patterns throughout the collection, 'Eyes Wide Open.' In addition to demonstrating an unwavering commitment to futurism, even with subtle undertones that subverted expectations, Roseberry seamlessly juxtaposed contrasting moods: fragile yet threatening; irreverent and intellectual; dark yet hopeful.
The world may be uncertain about tomorrow but one thing remains unchanged: Daniel Roseberry's Schiaparelli continues to uphold its status as the gold standard of haute couture. A beacon in turbulent times, his presentation left a lasting message on our daily lives that can extend far beyond fashion itself. As he concluded the show notes, 'looking backwards is nothing if we cannot find something meaningful to bring into the future.'
