Daniel Roseberry designed one of his best collections yet for Spring-Summer 2025. With a profound understanding of Schiaparelli’s heritage but his finger firmly on the pulse of the current flashpoint, Roseberry created a cohesive couture-style collection that surprised and delighted with every detail. Roseberry’s sartorial discipline is second to none, and when paired with the impeccable craftsmanship that defines the Schiaparelli maison, the result is inevitably a series of surrealist looks richly layered with historical references and a modern je ne sais quoi. The Spring-Summer 2025 collection, entitled “Future Vintage,” was simultaneously contemporary and classic. Trompe d’oeil touches and whimsical modern details were built into silhouettes with unexpected volume and radiant color.
Texture and Structure Define Delightfully Colorful Collection
The final three looks to walk down the runway left an indelible impression. Resplendent in vibrant shades of yellow, blue, and green, and covered with hundreds of hand-painted buttons in a touch far more reminiscent of couture than ready-to-wear, they represented the meticulous attention to detail that Roseberry embeds in even his most dramatic looks.
Look 44, Schiaparelli Spring-Summer 2025. Tulle top entirely embroidered with hand-painted sequins in floral motifs. Dark green viscose and linen sarouel trousers with a gathered waist and ultra-low rise. Black slingback mules with kitten heels and signature Keyhole detail in gold metal. Image courtesy of Schiaparelli.Look 45, Schiaparelli Spring-Summer 2025. Short-sleeved, tulle dress entirely embroidered with hand-painted sequins in floral motifs. Curved-effect silver metal choker necklace. Surreal pumps in nude suede with a subtly undulating outline, enhanced by a signature Keyhole strap and a rhinestone ring at the heel. Image courtesy of Schiaparelli.Look 46, Schiaparelli Spring-Summer 2025. Long-sleeved, tulle dress entirely embroidered with hand-painted sequins in floral motifs. Curved-effect gold metal choker necklace. Heeled sandals in nude leather embroidered with a contrasting gold metal Measuring Tape. Image courtesy of Schiaparelli.
A personal favorite look was a knit skirt in sea foam green and bright blue paired with an elegant scarf and surrealist shoes featuring a gold toe ring detail. Upon close examination, the skirt was revealed to have dual textures, with shellacked fabric effortlessly fading into suede. It was a distinctively Roseberry touch, invisible to the untrained eye and characteristic of his Schiaparelli-verse in which everything is not quite what it seems.
Look 46, Schiaparelli Spring-Summer 2025. Strapless top in turquoise ribbed viscose with hand-applied tonal leather stripes. Matching pencil skirt in turquoise ribbed viscose with hand-applied leather stripes spray painted in a glossy dark blue gradient effect. Acetate sunglasses in shades of turquoise and blue with signature keyhole detailing on the temples. Mismatched earrings featuring a resin crystal-colored cabochon on one side and a textured silver brass hoop on the other. Large round bag in turquoise suede with a brilliant blue gradient and signature anatomy charms forming a face on the handle. Moulded slippers in brown leather with rhinestone toe ring. Image courtesy of Schiaparelli.
Braiding provided another highlight of the collection. Attached to a short preppy white dress and a seductive semi-sheer piece in blue jersey, braids were held by the models like whips. They recalled the velvet ropes outside of nightclubs, especially due to the gold surrealist details winking out at guests. Such details, signature Schiaparelli, were discerningly used by Roseberry to delightful effect throughout the collection. From oversized bangles to playful buttons to key motifs on tops and belts, they added bold pops of personality that never came off as ostentatious.
Look 2, Schiaparelli Spring-Summer 2025. Off white piqué jersey polo bodysuit. Draped skirt in ecru with a decorative bow that ends in a braid topped with a silver metal jewellery clasp on the side. Mismatched hammered gold brass earrings featuring a signature Nipple on one side and a rhinestone hoop topped with a tooth and pearl on the other. Heeled sandals in gold leather decorated with a tonal Measuring Tape embroidery. Image courtesy of Schiaparelli.
Schiaparelli played with structure extensively this season, creating a series of unexpectedly voluminous silhouettes that were still exquisitely tailored. Standouts amidst a spring/summer collection, pieces with oversized collars and lavish elegantly draped details demonstrated Roseberry’s tactful flare for the dramatic.
Look 7, Schiaparelli Spring-Summer 2025. Square-shouldered jacket in black textured viscose with barrel sleeves and impossible V neckline, decorated with trompe l’oeil pockets with gold metal door handles. Matching low-rise oversized shorts in black textured viscose adorned with a jeweled key on the loop. Long flounce in compact ecru jersey. Mismatched hammered gold brass earrings featuring a signature Nipple embellished with a rhinestone piercing on one side and a plate topped with the signature Keyhole detail on the other. Gold metal chain belt topped with charms featuring the Maison’s signature codes. Bijoux sandals in gold leather with kitten heels enhanced by a signature Mouth toe strap in gold metal and a rhinestone ring at the heel. Image courtesy of Schiaparelli. Look 16, Schiaparelli Spring-Summer 2025. Asymmetrical ruffled dress in beige tussah with a bare shoulder and leg on the right side. It is worn with a matching trench coat in beige tussah that falls to the shoulders. Gold brass necklace featuring textured sun-shaped medallions linked by amber-coloured resin cabochons. Matching earrings featuring a ribbon enclosing an amber resin cabochon. Bijoux sandals in nude leather with kitten heels and a signature Mouth toe strap in hammered brass and rhinestone piercing. Image courtesy of Schiaparelli.
Modern Silhouettes Elicit Rave Reviews from Guests
Kendall Jenner, wearing a deceptively complex look that was simultaneously one of the most understated and revolutionary from the collection, starred in the show. A corset-style top was paired with jeans that dramatically dipped below the waist in a flattering U-shaped cut. It was a casually seductive silhouette that I expect to see imitated on many runways in coming seasons.
Kendall Jenner models Look 3, Schiaparelli Spring-Summer 2025. Off-white wool jersey tank bodysuit with tonal topstitching. It is worn with raw denim trousers with extreme cut-out detailing and E and S denim and embroidery on the back pockets. A mismatched hammered gold brass earrings featuring a textured maxi-hoop on one side and a signature Mouth adorned with a rhinestone piercing on the other. Heeled sandals in black leather decorated with contrasted gold metal Measuring Tape embroidery. Images courtesy of Schiaparelli.
And it was just one example of Roseberry making the denim aesthetic distinctively his own. An oversized blazer worn shirtless was paired with a signature Schiaparelli bag and pants with a playfully designed waistline for a triple trompe d’oeil denim look that felt more couture than casual. Meanwhile, the “Future Vintage” theme of the collection was perhaps best encapsulated by Adriana Lima as she made her first runway appearance in six years. Wearing a corseted checkered dress with accentuated shoulders, Lima stunned in a vintage pattern that seemed to have time traveled into a fashion future designed in Roseberry’s rich imagination.
Look 25, Schiaparelli Spring-Summer 2025. Oversized cape dress with batwing sleeves in overdyed and faded blue cotton embellished with Measuring Tape embroidery and signature hammered gold brass bijoux buttons. It is worn as a coat over matching low-rise trousers in overdyed and faded blue cotton. Mismatched earrings featuring a blue resin and gold brass cabochon on one side and a signature hammered gold brass and enamel Eye on the other. Long ruffle in ecru compact jersey. Chain necklace in hammered gold brass representing a key passing through a signature Keyhole. Anatomy Jewellery bag in heavy blue cotton decorated with signature anatomical details in hammered gold brass and enamel forming a trompe-l’œil face. Moulded slippers in nude leather embellished with a rhinestone toe ring. Image courtesy of Schiaparelli. Adriana Lima models Look 5, Schiaparelli Spring-Summer 2025. Shirt dress in white linen with black checks, featuring a wide collar, jewelled hammered gold brass buttons and a tonal corset with lacing at the back. Mismatched hammered gold-plated brass earrings featuring a pea pod on one side and a signature Mouth embellished with a rhinestone piercing on the other. Surreal pumps in nude suede with a subtly undulating outline, enhanced by a signature Keyhole strap and a rhinestone ring at the heel. Secret mini bag in grey leather, adorned with bijoux buttons featuring the Maison’s codes and the signature Padlock clasp in hammered gold brass. Image courtesy of Schiaparelli.
Schiaparelli’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection is indisputably one of the strongest offerings from any designer this season. This editor’s favorite show in Paris, it was a massive coup-d’état for Roseberry, who only seems to get stronger every season as he plays with Schiaparelli’s historical vocabulary while shaping his own incredible legacy with the brand.
