Runway

Thom Browne’s Spectacular Debut FW23 Couture Collection: A Journey in Shades of Grey

July 7, 2023

Thom Browne Couture FW23

Renowned designer and CFDA President Thom Browne unveils his inaugural Fall Winter 2023 couture collection in a one-night-only event at the iconic Palais Garnier. Blending elements of classic American sportswear with the opulence of couture, this extraordinary show takes spectators on a mesmerizing journey through a grayscale universe.

THOM BROWNE, HAUTE COUTURE FW23. Photo by Corey Tenold.

A Solo Traveler on a Lonely Platform

Amidst a sea of grey, a solo traveler emerges, clad in a handmade self-tipped grey wool suit. In their wake, two porters in roped shoulder jackets and pleated skirts carry silk frames and pebbled leather luggage. The atmosphere is filled with an air of mystery and anticipation.

THOM BROWNE, HAUTE COUTURE FW23, Show Space
THOM BROWNE, HAUTE COUTURE FW23, Show Space

Time Comes to Life

As the show unfolds, time materializes in the form of bell-adorned cloche hats and reflective eyewear. Three-dimensional trompe l'oeil wool tailoring merges seamlessly with rounded tweed silhouettes crafted from seersucker tulle, grosgrain ribbon, mélange pouf yarn, and sheer organza lace. Each step is accompanied by a chime that reverberates throughout the grand theater.

THOM BROWNE, HAUTE COUTURE FW23, Look 5
THOM BROWNE, HAUTE COUTURE FW23, Look 5

Passengers in Couture Ensembles

Passengers enter the scene, clad in fully canvassed coats and tailoring adorned with aquatic iconography. A mermaid shimmers with gold bullion scales, starfish glisten with hand-hooked beads and sequins, and a clam nestles among silk satin panels. Layers of latex trompe l'oeil shirt-and-tie leotards, socks, and opera gloves add a surreal touch. Tortoiseshell platform heels complete their otherworldly presence, carrying soft accessories and Thom Browne's iconic bags.

THOM BROWNE, HAUTE COUTURE FW23, Look 56

Pigeons and Gargoyles

Feathers flutter as beaded, sequin-encrusted pigeons tiptoe across the stage, adorning themselves in dresses and jacket skirts. The gargoyles follow suit, their embroidered coat dresses wrapped in trompe l'oeil silk drapes. The scene becomes a captivating display of imagination and craftsmanship.

Monsieur Thom Browne, Photo by Corey Tenold.

The Conductor and the Train

The conductor takes over in a grand finale, donning a full-length, mixed tweed trench adorned with hand-embroidered grey and gold bullion thread. Embroidered whales, turtles, seashells, and the emblematic Hector capture attention on oversized collars and epaulets. The conical shape draws focus as the conductor guides the theatrical journey.

THOM BROWNE, HAUTE COUTURE FW23, Detail. Photo by Corey Tenold.

A Translucent Encounter

Finally, the train arrives, its model adorned in a sheer white dress that trails ten feet behind. Reminiscent of the quintessential Thom Browne suit, the dress features layered tulle and organza, creating a translucent effect. As the protagonist and the train cross paths, a fleeting moment of connection is shared before fading back into shades of grey.

Thom Browne's couture debut at the Palais Garnier transcends conventional boundaries, taking viewers on a captivating journey through a grayscale dreamscape. With masterful craftsmanship and a visionary touch, Browne's collection intertwines elements of sportswear and couture, leaving an indelible mark on the world of high fashion. The show's enchanting narrative and meticulous attention to detail create a truly unforgettable experience that fades into the annals of fashion history. thombrowne.com

VIPs and Celebrities in Attendance

The star-studded event at the Palais Garnier for Thom Browne's couture debut was graced by a lineup of VIPs and celebrities who added an extra layer of glamour. Among the notable attendees were actress and singer Amber Kuo, multi-talented comedian Ayo Edebiri, acclaimed filmmaker Baz Luhrmann and Catherine Martin, Grammy-winning rapper Cardi B, legendary actress Diane Keaton, social media influencer Emma Chamberlain, renowned ballet dancer Karina, actor Lee Pace, Olympic gold medalist Lindsey Vonn, beloved actress Maisie Williams, and critically acclaimed musician SAINt JHN. Each brought their unique style and presence, further elevating the event and showcasing the universal appeal of Thom Browne's exceptional couture collection.thombrowne.com

THOM BROWNE, HAUTE COUTURE FW23