Legendary designer Jun Takahashi celebrates the 35th Anniversary of UNDERCOVER by revisiting his iconic 2004 collection with fresh perspective
AsUNDERCOVERcelebrates its 35th anniversary, designerJun Takahashirevisits one of his most personal and influential collections: theAW2004-2005“but beautiful... part parasitic, part stuffed.” This milestone collection, originally inspired by French plush artistAnne-Valerie Dupondand the effortlessly poetic style ofPatti Smith, is now being reimagined for theAW2025-2026season - a bridge between past and present, nostalgia and reinvention.
When it first debuted in 2004-2005,"but beautiful..."was an experiment in texture and contrast, exploring the idea of what it might look like if Patti Smith wore garments reminiscent of handcrafted stuffed animals.
The result was a collection that blended softness with rebellion, artistry with imperfection—hallmarks of Takahashi's signature deconstructionist approach. Now, 20 years later, he brings it back with a fresh perspective, shaped by the evolving fashion landscape and his own personal growth:
"I was 35 years old when I first designed this collection. Now, at 55, I am excited to see how these 20 years have been reflected in my work," he shares. The beauty is in the storytelling through the garments, where each piece serves as a medium for exploring complex emotions and ideas.
UNDERCOVER AW25
UNDERCOVER: A Legacy of Innovation
Founded in 1990 by Jun Takahashi,UNDERCOVERis a Japanese fashion brand known for blending streetwear aesthetics with high-fashion concepts, often incorporating punk, avant-garde, and deconstructed elements. Over the decades, it has gained international recognition through collaborations withNike,Uniqlo, andSacai, as well as its participation in Paris Fashion Week since 2003.
Defining Moments in UNDERCOVER's History
2003 – International Breakthrough
UNDERCOVERmade its Paris Fashion Week debut, marking its transition from Japanese streetwear to global high fashion. This was a turning point, bringing Takahashi into the same space asComme des GarçonsandYohji Yamamoto.
2010 – Nike Gyakusou Collaboration
A groundbreaking partnership with Nike led to the creation of the Gyakusou ("reverse running" in Japanese) running line, a perfect fusion of performance wear and fashion.
2019 – Valentino AW19 (Menswear) Fashion Show
UNDERCOVERcollaborated withValentinoduring Paris Fashion WeekAW19, merging Takahashi's punk-inspired aesthetic withValentinounder Pierpaolo Piccioli's direction. This marked the first timeValentinocollaborated with an independent streetwear designer at this scale. The collaborative collection was portrayed inRain Magazine'sAutumn-Winter 2019print edition.
Takahashi also created artwork for the same collection, featuringEdgar Allan Poe-inspired motifs, traveler slogans, spaceships, and skulls, all rendered in a 50s sci-fi style - topped off with a jointVUlogo.
Merging Kubrick's dystopian masterpiece "A Clockwork Orange," with his signature punk-meets-gothic aesthetic, AW19 stands out as one of Takahashi'smost ambitious collections.
A Collection That Bridges Eras
This 35th anniversary collection places a renewed focus on the contemporaryzeitgeistand a refined adult casual style, maintaining the essence of the original while adapting it for today's world.
For fans ofUNDERCOVER, this anniversary collection is more than just a retrospective - it's an evolution. A testament to Takahashi's ability to rework and redefine his own legacy while staying deeply connected to the spirit that has shaped his brand for over three decades.