Text by Jesse Scott
Imagery by Louis Daniel
Masquerade ball meets rock & roll? It’s just another day in the life for Jun Takahashi’s UNDERCOVER. Always daring, the iconic Japanese streetwear brand captivated Paris this Men’s Fashion Week with an elegant boho-chic collection that spotlighted bedazzled face masks and was presented to the haunting tunes of Melbourne band Glass Beams, which made a surprise performance.
Mediterranean Summer Style, with Romantic Darkness Just Because
As summer heats up across the Mediterranean, UNDERCOVER stepped up with a series of linen-based looks perfect for afternoons out in Ibiza or Saint-Tropez. No color or pattern was off limits: a casual all-khaki look paired with white lace details was contrasted by bold rococo outfits which, especially when paired with lace veils and laurel crowns, seemed to have stepped straight out of Versailles. But even amidst this opulence, Takahashi did not stray from the street style je ne sais quoi, at times noir, that is integral to his and UNDERCOVER’s DNA. A haunted mansion motif recurred throughout the collection, imbuing graceful beige looks with a delightfully dangerous aura. Plumes of smoke also appeared frequently, while hazy colors blended together on two-tone shirts.
Takahashi Walks the Line between Masculine and Feminine Silhouettes
The highlights of the collection were not graphics but structure. Takahashi has mastered the art of summer layering, as exemplified by light zip-up hoodies, flowing long coats, and classically tailored blazers. Takahashi deftly navigated between masculine and feminine silhouettes; long skirts and wide-legged pants were interspersed amidst an array of more traditional menswear. Particularly noteworthy were the lightweight almost-cropped jackets, given a touch of vintage formality due to the pockets on each breast. The masks, which featured in every look in varying colors and styles, felt gender-fluid. Delicate black veils gracefully draped over some models, conversing with the lace patchwork on their tops, while butterfly-esque masks, in colors ranging from fairy white to periwinkle blue to devilish red, added pops of joie de vivre to others.
Surprise Collaboration with Champion Draws Rave Reviews
Heads turned when the iconic Champion logo appeared on three looks midway through the show. The collaboration makes sense for UNDERCOVER; sportswear and high fashion crossovers are becoming increasingly common, and Champion is a natural fit for the “street sleek” that has become Takahashi’s calling card. Most importantly, the three outfits were beautifully executed, seamlessly fitting into the collection with an effortless “loungewear meets clubwear” attitude. Proposed in white, khaki, and brown, they are sure to be bestsellers.
UNDERCOVER Tribe Continues to Grow Following another Star-Powered Show
Takahashi’s latest collection was largely inspired by tribal fashion, and the international UNDERCOVER tribe seems poised for continued growth following another star-powered show. Tyler Mazaheri, Petra Collins, Matthias Geerts, and Matthew M. Williams all sat front row in effortlessly glamorous looks that perfectly matched the vibe of the collection. They witnessed what could be a watershed moment in the brand’s history; in spectacle and substance, the UNDERCOVER show stands as a definite highlight of the Men’s Spring/Summer 2025 events.
