By Romi More
As UNDERCOVER continues its 35th anniversary celebration, Jun Takahashi unveiled the brand’s Spring/Summer 2026 men's wear collection titled 'but beautiful 4.5...' during Paris Fashion Week. Following the women's wear homage earlier this year, this new chapter continues to reimagine Takahashi's cult-favorite A/W 2004 collection 'but beautiful…,' now through the lens of masculine rebellion.
Presented as a lookbook rather than a runway show, the collection's subdued yet emotionally charged sensibility felt more intimate — perhaps a deliberate choice mirroring the introspective quality of its references. The controlled format allowed the garments' textures, prints, and symbolic gestures to speak quietly but powerfully, much like the subtle rebellion that Takahashi now seems to champion.
Intentionally blind to trends and loyal to his own vision as always, Takahashi presented garments that simultaneously blend a rebellious edge with poetic comfort. In the original A/W 2004 collection, Takahashi explored the tension between innocence and disruption while drawing inspiration from the sculptural textile works of French artist Anne-Valérie Dupond. Dupond's fabric busts – hand-sewn, imperfect, and emotionally raw — blended fabric imperfection with an austerity reminiscent of classical statuary. Lyrics from Patti Smith "People Have The Power" — a politically charged anthem of collective strength — appeared across select garments. This nod reinforced Takahashi's vision of rebellion as something not loud or destructive but hopeful, poetic, and culturally grounded.
While the newly presented collection remained anchored in its original inspiration, many of UNDERCOVER'S signature codes — such as distorted silhouettes, subversive detailing, and punk-infused motifs — were noticeably toned down. The result: a more wearable iteration of Takahashi's language that blends seamlessly into everyday wardrobe without losing its 'culture turned into clothes' attitude.
Often referred to as the 'Godfather of Japanese Streetwear,' Takahashi once again demonstrated his ability to weave diverse cultural influences into a peculiar yet elegant patchwork. The collection brought together precise tailoring, subcultural references, and utilitarian streetwear. Patti Smith-inspired fedora hats and blazers adorned with medal-shaped charms added nostalgic touches that UNDERCOVER'S devotees were quick to note (Look 46, Look 49). Such familiar brand codes including: mismatched buttons, distorted zippers, wandering stitch lines, and exposed labels, were married with more pragmatic elements introduced by streetwear collaborators (Look 21, Look 34, Look 23, Look 20).
Reimagined Vans Slip-On and Sk8-Hi sneakers, Champion sweatsuits, and utilitarian pieces from Dickies, which collaborated with UNDERCOVER for the first time, grounded the collection in real-world functionality (Look 23, Look 9).
Moody floral still lifes by Welsh artist Emma Bennett, known for her dramatic chiaroscuro compositions that reflect on time, decay, and the transient nature of beauty, were printed onto jackets, quilted suits, and shorts. The introspective tone of Bennett's art added a quiet emotional charge to the collection, echoing Takahashi's melancholic rebellion (Look 13, Look 14).
In a 2006 interview, reflecting on the original 'but beautiful…' collection, Takahashi said, 'In my head, there is always something beautiful and something ugly, which are equal. Simple beauty does not interest me. But just ugliness does not interest me either.' The warm reception of 'but beautiful 4.5…' confirms that Takahashi’s vision, and his unmatched ability to translate cultural fragments into beautiful contradictions, remains as relevant today as it was two decades ago.