Unfamiliar Familiar: Weaving Tradition and Innovation in Dries Van Noten’s Spring/Summer ‘24 Collection

September 29, 2023

The tension between tradition and reinvention threads through the fabric of Dries Van Noten’s latest collection, a fascinating fusion of the familiar with the unfamiliar. This Spring/Summer ‘24 collection is a symbiosis of contrast and spontaneity, a fresh perspective on tradition, translating into a narrative of free-thinking fashion.

Reimagining Sportswear

The collection plays with the tenets of sports attire, rendering them into unexpected shapes and formations. A rugby stripe motif is transfigured across asymmetric dresses, and tennis scarves are metamorphosed into knitted tops or seamlessly integrated into the drape of skirts. With graphic racer checks and contrast club blazers with grosgrain trims, every piece tells a story of a feminine reimagination of sporting codes.

A Feminine Ode to Masculine Tailoring

In this collection, men’s tailoring is subjected to a transformative journey. The classic shirt, a staple of sartorial elegance, is warped and manipulated into unprecedented forms, challenging the norms of fashion design. Tuxedo jackets and double-breasted suits, usually strict in form, appear draped and oversized, radiating a more feminine vibe. Trench coats see elongation, their iconic gabardine fabric reimagined into skirts and dresses.

Structural Play and Silhouette Manipulation

Dries Van Noten’s collection marries the structure of formality with the relaxed aura of casual attire. The silhouette manipulation seen here is provocative, framing the body in new, elongated lines, showcasing either shrunken or exploded proportions. This structural play extends to jackets abbreviated in length and pagoda shoulders rigorous in precision.

Fabric Authenticity and Simplicity in Prints

Authenticity shines through the fabric choices—cotton chino, striped poplin, gabardine, and Prince of Wales checks, creating a tactile symphony of textures. Washed denim, a usually casual material, is elevated to evening jackets and elegant coats. The collection sports simplicity in prints, with motifs reduced to their purest forms like bi-colours and graphical patterns.

Unexpected Embellishments and Stereotype Subversion

This collection sees jewels in fractured clusters and pearls rendered in surprising configurations. There is abundant embroidery in unlikely locations, such as sequins on shoes and paillettes accentuating a raincoat. The collection subtly subverts stereotypes with feminine pumps reworked with exaggerated pointed toes, sports laces, and curving heels. Mediterranean one-toe sandals are presented with socks, displaying the plainness of men’s Oxfords.

Accompanied by a soundtrack of female voices sharing intimate experiences, this collection from Dries Van Noten is a dialogue of different stories and opposing sentiments finding a common language. It’s a diverse tapestry where the unfamiliar familiar plays out, blending opposing sensibilities and re-energizing tradition. It’s a continued conversation exploring the tension of contrasting ideas, intertwining to create a space for spontaneous and free-thinking fashion design. Discover more at