Vaquera's Fall-Winter collection explores rebellious deconstruction, where theatrical silhouettes and contrasting textures create a provocative dialogue between high fashion and street anarchy.
By Gulchachak Garaeva; translated by Jesse Scott
"We want to create couture for deviants," say the designers of Vaquera, whose new collection for Fall-Winter 2025 challenges the usual notions of luxury. Blurring the boundaries between high fashion and street anarchy, Vaquera continues its mission to deconstruct the classic wardrobe and turn familiar images into something surreal and provocative.
Following a much-talked-about Spring-Summer show, which saw the brand re-imagine corporate uniforms in the spirit of DIY punk, the new collection creates street theater from fashionable eccentricities. Voluminous silhouettes, exaggerated proportions, bold layering, and unexpected materials became Vaquera's main tools for writing a narrative in which rules exist only to be broken and every look is a dramatic spectacle.
Futuristic Glamour with a Touch of the Past
Metallic fabrics, imbued with the spirit of the times, were key to the collection. While somewhat reminiscent of spacesuits, these textiles were combined with soft, almost destroyed textures to create a surprisingly complex and lively image. This was not a sterile or cold futurism but instead a continuing tale with nuanced character.
FW25 saw Vaquera turn intimate elements of the wardrobe into grand objects of fashion architecture. Lingerie appeared in inverted and exaggerated forms, becoming the centerpiece of looks rather than being hidden. Deliberately oversized bras transformed our perceptions of the body, removing the boundaries between public and private and criticizing restrictions on sexual self-expression with a hint of intellectual irony.
Vaquera have always been masters of unexpected combinations. Texture play was central to this collection, with diverse textiles colliding and interacting with each other. A satin skirt is adjacent to a soft knit top, rough leather to a silk shirt, and a leather patent skirt to a soft raincoat-style bomber jacket. These unexpected combinations create fluid contrasts, as if synthesizing different time periods and cultural codes.
Incredible styling found perfection within chaos. Each look appeared as if put together in a spontaneous burst of inspiration - but in fact was carefully constructed down to the smallest detail. Precision was synthesized with randomness in excessive layers, asymmetries, and seemingly carelessly thrown elements.
The Future is Here
Vaquera FW25 provides a rethinking of sexuality, a radical embrace of eccentricity, a poignant commentary on societal norms, and a look into tomorrow through the prism of the past. This is a collection where fantasy meets history and anti-fashion becomes the new standard of beauty.
With its exaggerated proportions, unexpected styling, and touches of deconstruction, this collection was extravagant, multi-layered, and provocative. There were no compromises and no attempts to please a mass audience: only the pure energy of freedom and audacity.
Such an approach, in the capable hands of Vaquera, is magical. This collection was on the verge of anti-fashion and high fashion, playing with our usual understanding of elegance. Yes, it is daring, unapologetic, and provocative - but this is its strength. With a foundation of freedom and radical self-expression, Vaquera is proposing a new aesthetic of modernity.