The reigning queen of reinvention, Donatella Versace transported us back to the carefree spirit of the 90s with her Spring 2025 collection. Set against the dramatic backdrop of Milan's Castello Sforzesco, the show was a vibrant celebration of color, print, and unbridled creativity.
A Blast from the Past
Drawing inspiration from the Spring 1997 Versus collection—a diffusion line Donatella helmed during fashion's "pre-internet pre-history"—the designer revisited a moment of pure, unadulterated joy. "There was freedom, happiness, not too much thinking, and being more casual [about] putting your clothes together," she reminisced to WWD.
The Clash of Prints and Patterns
True to the Versace DNA, the collection was a riot of clashing prints and energizing patterns. Squiggly knits mingled with floral prints, some adorning silk pieces while others graced modern iterations of the iconic Versace chainmail. The color palette was a refreshing departure from the brand's typically bold hues, embracing baby pastels that lent a youthful air to the entire lineup.
While the collection nodded to the past, it wasn't without its forward-thinking elements. A standout piece was a gold sequin strapless dress worn by model Anok Yai—except it wasn't sequins at all. This marvel was actually a 3D-printed creation, built without seams and programmed to achieve Versace's famous hourglass silhouette. This technological feat hints at exciting possibilities for the future of fashion design.
The menswear offerings were equally captivating, featuring a delightful mix of casual and tailored pieces. A caramel-colored camp shirt paired with lavender trousers exemplified the collection's deft use of color, while a soft yellow and white leather jacket worn with violet leather pants pushed the boundaries of traditional menswear.
Accessories took a whimsical turn this season. Sculptural heels resembling wine glass stems and Versace crystal perfume bottles added a playful touch to the ensembles. In a nod to sustainability, flower fragment brooches were crafted from recycled plastic bottles and cigarette butts—a cheeky detail that prompted Donatella to quip, "So I think I can still smoke."
As the fashion industry continues to grapple with its role in a rapidly changing world, Donatella Versace reminds us of the power of joy and spontaneity. "I feel it's fashion's responsibility to do a little bit to bring people's spirits up," she stated. With this collection, she not only lifted spirits but also proved that fashion can be both intellectual and positive—a much-needed reminder in these complex times.
Star Power at Castello Sforzesco
The historic Castello Sforzesco provided a dramatic backdrop for Versace's Spring 2025 show, with its illuminated towers creating an enchanting atmosphere as night fell. The event drew an impressive roster of international celebrities. Channing Tatum cut a dashing figure in a classic black suit, standing confidently before the castle. Chang Hua Sen turned heads in a striking yellow suit that popped against the night sky, showcasing the bold colors trending in menswear.
Cai Xukun is wearing a full-length, patterned suit that appears to be brown and cream in color. The suit features an all-over print, possibly floral or abstract in design. He's paired this with black boots, creating a striking contrast. His blonde hair is styled in a short, slightly tousled look. The outfit is a bold choice that perfectly embodies the eclectic and daring spirit of Versace's collection.
Luis Zhao embodied the collection's playful spirit in a delicate blue floral dress, posing with a matching handbag adorned with a whimsical butterfly. The presence of these stars elevated the event's profile, attracting attention from fashion enthusiasts worldwide and cementing Versace's status as a favorite among the global elite.
The Versace Spring 2025 collection is more than just a trip down memory lane; it's a bold statement about the enduring power of creativity and the importance of embracing joy in fashion. As we look to the future, Donatella Versace is leading the charge, one vibrant print at a time.