If you were under the impression that Prada was the only brand thinking small this season… think again. And by small, we’re referring to garment size of course. Opening at the Maison de la Chimie and inspired by the sweltering heat of a South Korean summer, Wooyoungmi’s 'Dancing Texture' collection seemed flawlessly prepared for Paris Fashion Week’s own scorching surprise. Intended to blend formal contemporary style with climate accommodating size, the collection didn’t just survive the heat, but seemed to invite it.
An androgynous air emerged as co-ed models, adorned in unconventionally shaped swimwear and long shorts, appeared en-route for a quick cool down. The looks were minimalistic: mini bags and micro shorts appeared to play as fashion’s unofficial 'song of the summer.' Still, do not mistake her contemporary approach for casual attire. Formality manifested in the rigid, hourglass tailoring of mohair suits, with tailcoats shrunken in size — a wink to traditional menswear, reimagined to withstand the heat. From lightweight silk viscose to perforated knitwear for ease of airflow, Youngmi reimagined how to handle a Seoul-like summer with sophistication and fluidity. Poplin dress shirts with detachable collars along with deconstructed waistbands and cropped denim daywear all indicate that Youngmi is telling us to dress up without overdressing.
Remodeled Mary Janes, worn over ribbed socks and striped garters, transformed a classic women’s shoe into a boyish summer staple while intarsia raffia bags which folded out into picnic blankets, practically begged to meet the beach. Softly colored slip dresses, skirts, and camisoles reinforced a deliberate formal flair, though their undulating motion maintained a sensuous allure.
Menswear for Wooyoungmi has never been subject to conceptual restraint. She consistently conveys that it is not a fixed image or ideal archetype that influences her designs, but rather an expectation to remain artistically enriched and romantically inspired. Reinforced by a rare mother-daughter dynamic, the brand has flourished since Katie Chung’s appointment as co-creative director in 2014, adding a fresh and youthful energy to an otherwise established aesthetic.
The result was a show both breathable and vibrant, evoking the unplaceable feeling of nostalgia that hits just before summer even starts: giddy, fresh, excited but with a looming feeling that once it begins it eventually must also end. Whether departing from a day downtown or running off to seaside rendezvous, Youngmi is proof that elegance can endure as cool, modern, and crisp, indicating that even sartorial style need never break a sweat.