Ziggy Chen AW25 Weaves A Deeply Personal Story of Serenity

By Jesse Scott

Ziggy Chen's work is intrinsically and distinctly meditative, whether it is presented in a serene whitewashed hall or, as it was this season, in the urban grunge of a Parisian parkade. Chen's creative process is a deeply personal one, truly reflective of his soul, and for the soft-spoken designer, making clothes that exude his inner calm is the only way he knows. "The stillness in my designs represent who I am," Chen told Rain backstage following his AW25 show. "For me to make something really loud is not possible. Calm is what I am attracted to, and I feel really comfortable in this approach."

Chen feels no impetus to conform to trends or re-invent himself each show; rather, his collections reveal themselves as a contemplative exploration and evolution of a now-familiar design vocabulary. "The colors and textures that I work with are not something that change every season," the designer told Rain. "I work on them continuously." Chen's collections should be viewed as melting into a gradual progression rather than standing out as flash points. Similarly, individual garments should be viewed as melting into the wearer's personality rather than defining or shaping it. "I hope that the clothes I make can make people happy, of course, but most importantly comfortable," Chen reflected. "The shapes I make are meant to complement the wearer rather than impose a particular style."

The AW25 venue choice surprised many familiar with Chen's oeuvre; an urban parkade is swathed in an atmosphere entirely belying the serenity of the designer's work. But for Chen, this dichotomy creates balance, and was critical to the collection's solemn power. "The contrast was the deciding factor [in the venue choice]," Chen explained. "The clothes that we make have a certain fragility, they're very soft, and the location creates a strong contrast. But the colours also complement our fabric choice."

Chen's ability to create cohesion between contrasts was at the heart of his work this season. Entitled "Voleisure," the collection explores the intersection of purposeful choice ("volition") and relaxed comfort ("leisure"). This philosophical foundation manifests in sophisticated urban pieces that maintain an effortless ease. Natural fibers dominated, as cashmere, cotton, wool, and hemp danced together in a soothing symphony of self-assured softness. Particularly impressive was the cashmere-linen blend used in many of the collection's jackets; exuding easy luxury, it symbolized the quietly indulgent comfort that many Chen clients seek. Meanwhile, a nuanced and neutral color palette sourced inspiration from both watercolors and wood, emphasizing natural hues to complement the materials and instill them with a further sense of stability.

The show was set to a haunting live melody, as a saxophonist slowly made his way down a multi-level runway alongside the models. Deeply introspective, "Voleisure" was a retreat from the chaos of a rainy Paris Fashion Week and, in Chen's words, "a contemporary world that pushes on the accelerator." Through this collection, Chen invites us into his harmonious world, where thoughtful design meets natural comfort. As guests departed the transformed parkade, they carried with them not just images of beautiful clothes, but a deeper appreciation for Chen's unique vision of modern luxury – one that whispers rather than shouts, suggests rather than demands, and finds beauty in the spaces between contrast and harmony.