The Lebanese designer trades warrior glamour for ethereal romance in a collection inspired by exotic gardens and Hollywood's golden age
By Jesse Scott
Following an Autumn-Winter 2024 collection that was underscored by ferocity and violence, albeit with a sleek femininity, Zuhair Murad entered what he described as a secluded haven for Spring-Summer 2025. Emphasizing vibrant color and radiant floral beadwork, Murad told a tale of sensual elegance and fragile beauty born of exquisite natural landscapes with a wink at 1960s Hollywood glam.
Stars Dress their Best for Murad's Latest Show
The Zuhair Murad show is always a highlight on the couture calendar; the Lebanese designer's glamorous version of femininity attracts some of the world's biggest stars. Murad's dresses possess a romantic old-world sensibility. They seem made for grand balls in grand palaces, as did the looks of the celebrities and fashion luminaries who sat front row in this season's ornate venue. Kiara Amato looked stunning in an intricately embroidered black sheer dress that presciently anticipated the trends of the new season. Gisele Oliveira dazzled next to Chloe Lecareux in a long white gown with Baroque-style embroidery. British actress Ellie Bamber made an impression in a delicate lace look with statement sunglasses. And Paola Turani stole the show in a magnificent pink dress that echoed the vibrant colours and untamed exuberance that defined the runway.
Murad Dresses Modern Birds of Paradise
Last season saw Murad dress warrior women. This season marked an evolution to fairy tale femininity - but a continuation of the elegant silhouettes and fine craftsmanship that are central to the Murad atelier's DNA. In the show notes, Murad described a "tropical sunset painting the sky ablaze," "sensuality radiating from a hibiscus flower" (the symbol of Murad's home city Beirut), and "the vision of an ideal Eve." The Murad woman this season felt innocent, carefree, and above all happy, adorned in dramatic bows, silky cocoons, and rich floral embroidery. The color palette was initially dominated by pastels, with blush pinks, sea foam greens, periwinkle blues, and soft oranges dancing down the runway like fairies appearing in rose-tinted dreams. Bolder colours followed. Many bejeweled dresses contained elaborate vibrantly-colored patterns recalling the feathers of tropical birds. One such strapless look, memorable for the simplicity of the silhouette but the extravagance of the adornments (Look 31), seemed ideal for a modern iteration of a Louis XV-style ball. A similarly-colored floral patterned look, combining a seductive short dress with a billowing embroidered black train (Look 23) is certain to steal the spotlight on any red carpet it appears on.
This Paris couture week was notable for its especially rainy weather; a chaotic sea of umbrellas marked the entrance to the Murad show as guests protected their elaborate looks from a relentless storm. Many were no doubt dreaming of a tropical escape...and that's precisely what Murad provided. Lifting looks from his imaginative garden of Eden, where birds of paradise flit joyfully between vibrant flowers, he indulged guests in a romantic reverie that lingered on my mind like a sensual perfume as I returned to the cold Parisian night.
Key Looks: 3, 5, 12, 24, 25, 42, 44
