ALAÏA presents the winter spring 2023 couture show inspired by the complexities within simplicity. Creative Director Pieter Mulier chose a mythical Parisian address for the show. It is one that resonates simultaneously with the past and future, 15 Faubourg Saint-Honoré. It will be the home of Maison Alaïa, opening in 2024.
A house built on paradox
“Alaïa is a house built on paradox. The simplicity of geometric forms yields intricacy: rectilinear cutting and reduced construction are used to create garments that move easily around the form, transforming with the gestures of every woman. Polka-dots are a leitmotif, echoed by embroideries of baroque pearls, like points of light tracing the topography of the figure,” the press statement reads.
The Alaïa iconography is on display this season with stretch-jersey functioning as a second skin. It appears as leggings, draped skirts, and tops. Another highlight fabrication this season is mouton, raw-edged, and unlined leather used for outerwear. Crocodile is also translated into three-dimensional jacquard, chenille pretends to be fur.
The wrong side of denim
Mulier further adds a playful spin on denim by using the “wrong” side. This gesture provides a subtle contrast to the otherwise ubiquity of denim on the runway. Meanwhile, jewelry takes a brutalist approach and is “laid under clothing or fused with their surface, metal bangles inlaid into the sleeves of tailoring, or integrated into footwear.”