The Fendi Couture Spring/Summer 2024 collection, presented at Paris Fashion Week, is a canvas where past elegance meets future innovation. This season, Kim Jones channels the spirit of Karl Lagerfeld’s futurism, crafting a narrative of refined luxury and forward-thinking design.
The Celebrities Who Graced Fendi
The allure of Fendi’s latest collection drew an illustrious crowd, transforming the event into a celebration of fashion and film. Among the distinguished guests were Zendaya, a multi-award-winning actress, and Reese Witherspoon alongside her daughter Ava Philippe. The show also welcomed French actress Adèle Exarchopolous, a friend of the house, and Korean actress Hyekyo SONG, Fendi’s brand ambassador. Adding to this glamorous lineup were Heart Evangelista, a renowned Filipino actress and socialite; Chinese actress Yu Feihong; French fashion icon Zita d’Hauteville; and MINA, the Japanese singer and member of the Korean band TWICE.
Eternal City Chic: Rome’s Influence on Fendi Couture
As Kim Jones, Fendi’s Artistic Director of Couture and Womenswear, eloquently puts it, the latest collection is a profound exploration of Karl Lagerfeld’s futuristic vision, interlaced with a deep humanism. The collection presents “a human futurism” that harmonizes historical constants with contemporary craftsmanship to shape the present and future of couture.
Each piece, from the innovative use of the Selleria stitch to the abstract transformation of the iconic FF logo, echoed the voice of those who find luxury in subtlety and comfort. The collection stood as a celebration of Rome’s undying spirit, a nod to the city’s influence on Fendi’s identity.
Sculptural Grace: The ‘Scatola’ Silhouette Emerges
Introducing the ‘Scatola’ silhouette, meaning ‘box’, the collection begins and concludes with a nod to precision geometric pattern cutting. The use of light yet structured fabrics like silk gazar in creating new volumes encapsulates Jones’s ambition for precision paired with emotion. The tailoring follows the contours of the female form, marrying traditionally masculine fabrics like super kid mohair with the softness of the finest cashmere and vicuña yarns.
Masterful Embroidery: Fendi’s Ode to Detail
The collection dazzles with the use of intricate beading and sequins, as seen in one standout gown that shimmers with the complexity of a modern chandelier. This piece, a blend of meticulous beadwork and reflective materials, catches light and eye alike, sculpting the wearer into a vision of radiant sophistication.
In what could be the collection’s most striking innovation, the embroideries act as a confluence of decoration and structure. They are described as a future skin, a new kind of pelt that amalgamates elements of the natural and manmade world. This notion of an all-over fringe, delicate yet intense, moves organically with the wearer, embodying the collection’s dance-inspired fluidity.
Further, the collection extends the realm of couture to include ‘precious practical objects.’ This season features bespoke Baguette bags that mirror the collection’s material narrative, from mink-lined crocodile to fluid embroideries. These aren’t just accessories; they are personal artifacts that exemplify the collection’s luxurious practicality.
Veiled Revelations: The Allure of Transparency
Pushing the boundaries of couture, one design plays with transparency, adorned with a constellation of embellishments. This look redefines the concept of evening wear, merging the allure of the hidden and the seen in a delicate dance of fabric and skin. It’s a statement of confidence, encapsulating the collection’s theme of humanism at the heart of futurism.
Merging Structure and Softness
A key highlight of the collection was its exploration of dualities, merging masculine tailoring with feminine fluidity. Unique elements like the curtain waistband in tailored trousers, paired with flowing knitwear, exemplified this theme. Evening wear in washed silk transitioning into daily attire showcased the fusion of utility and luxury.
A shining example of this craftsmanship is evident in a suit of soft pink, its sequins cascading down like petals on a breeze. The design speaks to a textural harmony, juxtaposing softness with structure, an emblematic representation of Jones’ vision of emotion and precision in one.
The Couture Vanguard: Reinventing the Power Suit
Lastly, the reimagined power suit, with its sharp tailoring and embroidered florals, breaks the convention. It pairs traditional tailoring with the unexpected flourish of embellishments, a nod to the collection’s underlying narrative of contrasts and duality, a hallmark of the Fendi brand.
Beyond Couture: Fashion and Futurism
Fendi’s vision for couture transcends clothing, with Delfina Delettrez Fendi’s ‘Singular Vision’ fine eyewear tailored to the individual, merging the worlds of high fashion and high technology. These pieces, crafted in exquisite materials like 18k white gold and diamonds, underscore the brand’s dedication to personalized luxury.
Additionally, Kim Jones’s collaboration with composer Max Richter for the show’s score perfectly echoes the collection’s ethos of precision and emotion, an auditory testament to the visual feast presented on the runway.
This collection stands as an ode to the eternal city of Rome and a testament to the Fendi woman—unapologetically powerful, undeniably elegant, and always in motion towards the future.
Stay tuned for more updates on this groundbreaking fashion show. In the meantime, explore the full collection on Vogue.[Images courtesy of Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi]